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Pitch 1. There was no one around so I did some hou...
P1: Head up a left-facing corner system, move left, then continue up the corner to belay at obvious ledge. 10b
P2: Layback the crack then work up the chimney pod to base of roof, which is exited on the left with a crux reach to jug and next belay. 11b
P3: Up the V-slot/corner to belay on small ledge. 10c
P4: Traverse right and around the arete past fixed pins to belay. 10d
P5: Up from the belay and into the crack system to the trees. 10b
From the top of P5 either continue up to Astro Ledge or descend left via lovely tree-lined steep trail and series of fixed lines to the base of Zodiac Wall.
Route is shaded in the AM and extra cool due to geothermal air conditioning from adjacent mega chimney. The rock on P1-3 is clean and fractured with sharp 'alpine' feel.
Zodiac Wall. Take North Gully trail following pink tape markers along right side of wash. At base of the wall go right via ledges and fixed rope to start of route at good-sized tree stump.
Standard rack with doubles to 3". Fixed belays.
Pitch 3, nice crack marred by dirt streaming down ...
BETA PHOTO: The route from below.
BETA PHOTO: Near the crux on P2
Pitch 2, steep unrelenting moves. I almost peeled ...
Pitch 4. remember to protect for your follower, th...
looking up at the steepness.
Sep 20, 2012
P3 and P4 can be easily combined if you bring some long slings for the top of the V-slot.
P2, it's nice to have doubles of .4 and .5 Camalots.
The first 3 pitches of this route are generally dry even in the rain.
Aug 17, 2016
I've done it twice and both times felt 11b was a bit stiff for the roof, and that the route is a bit over rated. Probably 2.5 stars. Go do Alaska highway and tell me this is 4. I will say however that linking this with Public Image is a journey you will be proud of.