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The Riviera
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abandonment T 
Au Natural T 
Beach Bum T,S,TR 
Birthday Suit T,S,TR 
Bosch Blanket Bingo S 
Chouette T,S 
Dancing Hippos T 
Devin's Dihedral T,S,TR 
Infestation T,S 
Le Nouveau Riche T,S,TR 
Le Nouveau Riche Variation T,TR 
Lease Agreement S 
Minstrel, The S 
Monte Carlo S 
New Lease on Life S 
Sea Breeze S 
Silver Glide S 
Splash T,S,TR 
Topless Etiquette S 
Unknown Trad Line T 
Zig Zag Crack T,TR 

New Lease on Life 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Pat Thompson, August 1998
Page Views: 2,969
Submitted By: Walt Wehner on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (125)
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Eric, very new to climbing and doing great, gets a...

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Second from the left at the Riviera (another route not shown in the Boulder Canyon guide). Ascend a clean 30-foot face on good rock, then wander up the slab above (much easier climbing) for another 20 feet.

9+ if you take the easiest line; 10d to 11a if you climb straight up the bolts.


6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. You may want a #1 Camalot or similar at the top if you're freaked by runouts on easy rock.

Photos of New Lease on Life Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris leading New Lease on Life.
Chris leading New Lease on Life.
Rock Climbing Photo: The route is on the right.
The route is on the right.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 30, 2016
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 1, 2001

This route goes at either 10 or 11a, according to Rolofson.
By Jeff Lockyer
From: Canmore, AB
Nov 15, 2001

A little bit squeezed, although if you do remain stern and follow the bolt line directly the route has quite nice moves and I would give it a 10+ rating.
Mar 26, 2002

It is either 9+ on left or 10d on right. Enjoy!
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
May 19, 2003
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The path of least resistance felt to be 9 range. It is certainly not a 10 unless you really ignore a bunch of holds. I recall a brief traverse left near the 2nd bulge. It is easier than its 10a neighbor left.
By Anonymous Coward
May 20, 2003

New Lease on Life. FA: P. Thompson, 8/98.
By Cody Harrington
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jul 11, 2014

This route is in the new Boulder Canyon guidebook.
By Jake Riggs
From: Boulder, Colorado
Dec 21, 2014

Staying left makes this climb a lot easier. Direct felt about 10c.
By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 10, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Squeezed in between two adjacent routes and hard to avoid holds on these.
By Mason Roberts
From: Boulder, CO
May 30, 2016

This is a fun route. If you're leading, take a nut to hang on the third (maybe second?) bolt, which is missing it's hanger. You can see this from the ground. This makes the lead a little spicier, since you'll want to move up and left (just a tad) of the bolt to keep climbing. This will make the fall not directly down, making the nut wire seems less than ideal. (Edit: this has been fixed - there is a new hanger on the bolt, so there is no need for the wire trick.) However, the holds are solid, and you're never far from another bolt on this part of the wall.

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