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Winter Wall
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A Drilling Experience 
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Do The Right Thing 
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Go Between, The 
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Jump Start 
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Kelly's Arete 
Last Dance of a Fat Man 
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Living All Over Me 
Longing for Miss Adonis 
Meet the Feebles 
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New Kids on the Rock 
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Start of Something Good 
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Unsorted Routes:

New Kids on the Rock 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,204
Submitted By: Chris treggE on May 18, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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Red Wing. Ted Kryzer near the top of New Kids on t...

Description 

This climb goes up the nose that is 10 feet to the left of Jump Start. The bolts are on the left of the nose and then straight up the face. Strange climb that is awkward at the bottom but once you get past the blunt nose/arete, it is fun. Most people go up the arete near the top, but you can also try to ignore that and stay near the thin seam so you don't get so far left. That is harder for sure.

  • RCM&W #23, p. 121


Protection 

Bolts. Please use your own gear for top rope. Please bring an extra biner and if the ones up top look bad or don't easily clip or shut, please replace it. It's good karma.



Photos of New Kids on the Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Red Wing. Henning Boldt on New Kids on the Rock. August '08.
Red Wing. Henning Boldt on New Kids on the Rock. A...
Red Wing. Lower section of New Kids on the Rock. Henning Boldt and Ted Kryzer. August '08.
Red Wing. Lower section of New Kids on the Rock. H...
top.
top.
almost to the seam/arete section.
almost to the seam/arete section.
brandon at the start.
brandon at the start.
seam/arete.
seam/arete.
half-way
half-way
Topping out on "New Kids on the Rock"
Topping out on "New Kids on the Rock"
Comments on New Kids on the Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jonathan Williams
From: Palo Alto, CA
Mar 5, 2007

Kinda lame. It gets climbed because it's 10d and next to Jump Start.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 1, 2007

Well, it might be better if it would choose where it wants to be climbed, either up the arete or on the face for the first 20 feet. Can't have it both ways. Everyone I've seen climb it goes right up the arete and leans way down and left to clip.

By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Jun 29, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

The climb is poorly bolted at the bottom but the finish is fun.

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Oct 11, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

why all the haters? moderately long and composed of decent rock by red wing standards, this climb is fun throughout. the bottom section is a bit foot intensive (for shorties, at least), the middle has a few fun moves on very positive edges, and the top seem section is straight forward and fluid crimps and locks.

other notes: clip a runner on the first piece to reduce drag unless worried about blowing the moves getting to the second bolt; top (seam/crack area) can go on gear (small nuts, blue/yellow TCU).

By Kiri Namtvedt
May 14, 2012

I don't think it's lame at all! Rather varied, as the bottom is very delicate with small holds and it does get easier through the middle. I would agree with the comment about the bolt placement - if you blew it going for the second bolt you could hit the ledge below the first bolt.