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New Joe's

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Area 51 
Bone Garden 
Bridge Boulders 
Cable Grind Boulder 
Chip and Dale 
Closet, The 
Joes Squeeze  
Limbo and Tsunami 
Nerve Damage 
Parking Area 
Playtime is Over, Space Chubby, Salsa Verde, The Edge 
Road Boulder 
Self Service 
Tang Boulder 

New Joe's  

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Location: 39.30961, -111.11551 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 153,990
Administrators: Aeon Aki, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Oct 30, 2006
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New Joe's is a hillside/canyon a few miles away from the Left and Right forks with a whole bunch of quality boulders. Area 51 is the most accessable and most popular area, but there is a lot more up there just a short walk away. Be sure to scope out Nerve Damage and Pocket Rocket.

Please please please: don't camp up at New Joe's. It's on private property (I'm assuming it's either the Texaco subsidiary or the coal mine), so treat it with respect.

Getting There 

Follow Route 29 out of Orangeville and take a right on Route 57 North. Follow this for 3.3 miles and take a right on a dirt road, just after a huge rock pile on the right. Follow this dirt road up to a large parking lot with an oil rig in the middle. The trail up to the various areas starts at the back of the parking lot by the sign.

Climbing Season

Weather station 8.3 miles from here

96 Total Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',41],['2 Stars',34],['1 Star',10],['Bomb',2]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for New Joe's:
Warm Me Up, Scotty   V1 5     Boulder   Area 51
Desperate   V2 5+     Boulder, 10'   The Closet
Bad Genes   V2+ 5+     Boulder   The Closet
Scary   V3 6A     Boulder, 20'   Area 51
Joe Cool   V3 6A R     Boulder, 20'   Area 51
Super Sloper   V3 6A     Boulder   Area 51
Pimpn' Jeans   V4 6B     Boulder   The Closet
Pocket Rocket   V5 6C     Boulder   Anarchy
Self Service   V5 6C     Boulder, 15'   Self Service
Tang   V5 6C     Boulder   Tang Boulder
Contact   V5 6C     Boulder, 12'   88+
I'd Rather Be Climbing Her   V6 7A     Boulder, 15'   Limbo and Tsunami
Roll the Bones   V6 7A     Boulder, 15'   Bone Garden
Planet of the Apes   V6+ 7A     Boulder, 12'   Chip and Dale
Chips   V7 7A+     Boulder, 12'   Chip and Dale
SPAM   V7 7A+     Boulder   Area 51
Big Boy   V7 7A+     Boulder   Area 51
Stand Up   V8 7B     Boulder   Area 51
Resident Evil   V10 7C+     Boulder   Area 51
Black Lung   V13 8B     Boulder   Area 51
Browse More Classics in New Joe's

Featured Route For New Joe's
Edwin almost past the Scary part.

Scary V3 6A  UT : Joe's Valley : ... : Area 51
"Climb the left-facing, hollow-sounding flake" on the north side of the Evil Boulder. Tall and a bit scary. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of New Joe's Slideshow Add Photo
so fun
so fun
that says it all
BETA PHOTO: that says it all
new joes
new joes
new boulder by new joes
BETA PHOTO: new boulder by new joes
nate brun v8 by new joes
nate brun v8 by new joes
MK at New Joe's
MK at New Joe's
Cruising through New Joe's in the bug.
Cruising through New Joe's in the bug.

Comments on New Joe's Add Comment
Show which comments
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Oct 8, 2009
The Dirt road is now gated, and locked due to spraypainters.....Seek alt. approach....Not sure if it should be posted how to get there now.
By Hoez
From: Uganda
Mar 18, 2010
bullshit - total bs. I really hope that the spraypainters werent climbers as well... thats all we need; one dickweeds ignorance and lack of respect could get the entire place shut down. the gate was locked last time i was down there as well...

and I agree. with gaar

the alt. approach shouldnt be posted in my opinion.
By Shaft
From: Salt Lake City
Mar 18, 2010
The dirt road is gated because of repeated vandalism of the gas derrick in the parking lot.

Just use the alternate approach, why should it not be published? You can clearly see the boulders from the road and can simply straightline your way from a pullout above the locked gate - it sucks though and will cause erosion. Just use the coal road.
By grandpapi
Aug 17, 2014
We were in joe's valley this weekend and climbed in left and right fork, but never found new joes. We follwed the directions and found the dirt road which had a information board that said attention climbers. We drove up the dirt road for about 2 miles and it started to get really sketchy so we turned around. We saw the oil crane far off into the distance and estimated that it would take us an hour of driving on the dirt road at that rate. Is this correct? Approximately how long is the dirt road?
By WAGbag
From: Denver, CO
Nov 30, 2014
Update to this area and getting there:
Follow Route 29 out of Orangeville and take a right on Route 57 North. Follow this for 3.3 miles and you will see a dirt road on the right with a latrine and some climbers information, both supplied by Salt Lake Climbers Association (thank you). Taking the dirt road brings you to a tilled-up clearing where the derrick used to be. There is limited parking up here and the road is just barely ok for a subaru. Most people go an additional 0.9 miles up the paved road and park on the right with the obvious trail leading to the boulders. This land is no longer leased by the oil company and is open land again as far as I understand (and according to ownership maps which show it partly on public, state or forest service land).

Edit: since I've last visited SLCA has posted more recent information in the comments to the main page for Joe's. See updates and their maps of ownership there.
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