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 ADVANCED
Steele
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(route to left of New Ideal, right of Rainbow Arch) T 
(un-named) 5.7 arete T 
5.8 Corner T 
Aura T,S 
B-52 T 
Banana Route T 
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Black Magic T 
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Mean Lean (description to be deleted, earlier description previously entered) S 
Meathooks S 
Minnie Driver S 
Modern Day Pirates T 
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New Ideal T 
no name (on Wolf Wall) T,S 
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project on Wolf Wall S 
Psycho Killer S 
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Song of the Cows S 
Steele Head T 
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Sugar Magnolia T 
Suspended Animation T 
Three Pitch T 
Tornado on your Birthday T 
Triad T 
Uncertain Return T 
unnamed 5.10 left of Psycho Killer T 
unnamed 5.9 (area left of Wolf Wall) T 
Unnamed area below and left of Wrangler, etc. T 
unnamed trad on wolf wall T 
Vineland T,S 
Walk the Line T 
Welcome to Steele T 
Wendy's Finger Crack T 
Wolfe-Waites T 
Wolverine T 
Wrangler T 

New Ideal 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: B Wolfe, et al (1988)
Season: not summer
Page Views: 423
Submitted By: bernard on Nov 7, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: New Ideal

Description 

The route begins on bouldery moves on a vertical/slightly overhanging wall section leading up to a roof. Just below the roof is a large hueco-slot feature ideal for a #4-#5 camalot. Leaning back and reaching up from underclings, one reaches up to scrappy holds above the roof. There are two bolts at the beginning of this reach-up-through roof transition, one is an old Petzl self-drive with aluminum hanger. Pull up through the steepish upper wall section on a variety of holds through a vertical upper wall section.


Location 

This route is about 10 feet left of Suspended Animation. Both are on the right end of the Revelations wall.....the wall just up around from the Graham's Crack area and that has the route Revelations on its left end.


Protection 

Mixed, crux protected by bolts. A large cam (#4 WC - #5 BD is a possible size range) is helpful in protecting under the roof, before the bolts. No fixed anchors



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By bernard
From: birmingham, al
Jan 5, 2011

this photograph i think correctly shows the location and path of NI.....but it is incorrect in its portrayal of S. Animation in that this route, when it hits the upper roof feature, follows it further out to the right that is shown, following the ascending crack formed in the stone as its right edge turns upward

P.S.
Looks accurate

By tom crocker
Jan 6, 2011

I moved the l photo to Suspended Animation
Take a look and see if it is correct now.