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New Ice Tool Video Review of all the Petzl Tools! This really rocks!
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By Unassigned User
Feb 10, 2013

This is a must for anyone considering buying any of the Petzl ice tools I think! They do a comparison of 3 diff tools as to their pro's and con's of what would be your best choice for steep waterfall ice routes, alpine climbs, mixed climbs and dry tooling as well. And the scenery is awesome incl Ueli Steck as well!


www.petzl.com/us/page/new-ice-climbing-tools-0#video


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By seth0687
From Fort Collins
Feb 10, 2013
Leading the first ice pitch of the NW Gully-Thatchtop

Great video!


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By Jim Amidon
Feb 10, 2013
J TREE

Just my opinion,

BUT.......


I believe Petzl makes the finest gear anywhere.......


They just do...

As Ueli said, "I only need one tool"

I don't use all their stuff, but the stuff I have is of the highest quality.......

No shaved corners, and not outsourced for a profit..


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By Unassigned User
Feb 10, 2013

I agree. I like their products a lot - tho I hear their ropes have been 'less' than great from some climbers here as far as durability, etc.

???


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By KevinF
From Granby, CT
Feb 10, 2013

I've heard a lot of bad about Petzl ropes, but when a Fuse 9.4 went on sale for $100 at EMS I figured I'd try it out. I think it's been great, very durable and good handling. So I think it's hit or miss.


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By Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Feb 11, 2013
Cleo's Needle

New review two years ago.


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By Andrew Mayer
Feb 11, 2013
top of mt. lady washington - rmnp

^Yeah this video was new like 2 years ago when all of these tools first came out. Still a sweet video though


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By Bang
From Charlottesville, VA
Mar 1, 2013
Thanks Hank Caylor!

Andrew Mayer wrote:
^Yeah this video was new like 2 years ago when all of these tools first came out. Still a sweet video though

+1


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By Unassigned User
Mar 1, 2013

I just bought a Petzl Nomic to add to my arsenal. Very nice tool I have to say.... No I have to admit my Black.Diamond Viper's are nice too. I am looking forward to trying out the Nomic this coming week. I will report back what I think about it after I have used it but as far as design, construction, and such I have to say I think the I like the grind shape on the edge of the pick better than my Viper.


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By Bill Kirby
From Baltimore Maryland
Mar 3, 2013
Me eating a cliff bar walking back from Frankenstein Amphitheater

Michael Urban wrote:
I just bought a Petzl Nomic to add to my arsenal. Very nice tool I have to say.... No I have to admit my Black.Diamond Viper's are nice too. I am looking forward to trying out the Nomic this coming week. I will report back what I think about it after I have used it but as far as design, construction, and such I have to say I think the I like the grind shape on the edge of the pick better than my Viper.


Just be sure to take a file to those Nomic picks!


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By Unassigned User
Mar 4, 2013

Why? It looks damn good to me factory stock! Sharp too!

?????


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By superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Mar 4, 2013
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3

it will stick great... it jsut wont come out. file off the first spike unless you want to waste lots of energy removing your picks.

Danes wbesite has a good post on this.


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By Unassigned User
Mar 4, 2013

Okay thanks! who is Danes?


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By Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Mar 4, 2013
Cleo's Needle

I reduced the first four teeth, it helped a lot.


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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Mar 4, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on

Dane's website: Coldthistle.blogspot.com


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By Bang
From Charlottesville, VA
Mar 4, 2013
Thanks Hank Caylor!

Sorry for stealing your post for a minute, so if one files down the front teeth, will that compromise the tools' mixed climbing ability?


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By Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Mar 4, 2013
Cleo's Needle

Maybe but it beats struggling to get every placement free. I doubt it though, you're not filing off the teeth, just shortening them.


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By Paul-B
Mar 4, 2013
Flakes of Wrath

Bang wrote:
Sorry for stealing your post for a minute, so if one files down the front teeth, will that compromise the tools' mixed climbing ability?



No
machavok.wordpress.com/tips/


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By Bill Kirby
From Baltimore Maryland
Mar 4, 2013
Me eating a cliff bar walking back from Frankenstein Amphitheater

Michael..Detuning your picks is key to having a good day out with Petzl picks. Nomics are well known for displacing lots of ice for one and two like Ray said the ice tool will come out when you want it to.

Take a file and file out the bird beak (the tooth at the end of the pick) It's ok to take lots of meat off the end of the pick. This way you'll displace less ice every swing and in turn take less swings. After that file down the first four or five teeth alot. This is called undercutting the teeth. This will prevent you from wasting time and energy twisting and turning the tool to get it out from the ice. You will know you're done when the ice tools come out when you want them to and don't come out when you don't.

Bang.. When you cam a tool into a crack you're using the whole pick. Yes hooking stuff and stein pulls will dull the ends but the pick won't break if that's what you're asking. Use two different sets of picks if you find yourself climbing lots water ice one day and drytooling the next.


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By Unassigned User
Mar 4, 2013

Thanks Kirby,
Does anyone have a pic of what they SHOULD look like when I get done filing them down? I'm worried about doing something wrong and ruining them!


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By Unassigned User
Mar 4, 2013

Michael Urban wrote:
Thanks Kirby, Does anyone have a pic of what they SHOULD look like when I get done filing them down? I'm worried about doing something wrong and ruining them!



Oops! Never mind! I just got on my laptop versus my cell phone now and see a video link!


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By Dane
Mar 4, 2013
Cham '11

Great video as is the Petzl scottish climbing vid.



Few faults on Petzl gear and my choice in tools and crampons the majority of the time. But there is no lack of good ice gear these days.


Bang wrote:
Sorry for stealing your post for a minute, so if one files down the front teeth, will that compromise the tools' mixed climbing ability?



At the top end yes, most certainly. If you are asking here, likely no for your use. No harm in that either. Just the way it is.

Modifing the pick and why?

coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/10/petzl-picks-again.html


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By Bang
From Charlottesville, VA
Mar 4, 2013
Thanks Hank Caylor!

Dane wrote:
At the top end yes, most certainly. If you are asking here, likely no for your use. No harm in that either. Just the way it is.


Thanks Dane! Btw, can one put the cascade pick on the new Quark or Nomic?


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By Unassigned User
Mar 4, 2013

I don't understand what the 'benefit' is of someone 'hooking' their leg OVER their arm when ice climbing! ??

Can someone explain this move to me?

It's been about 20 since I ice climbed - back in the late 80's and so. Leg Hooking Move


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By Dane
Mar 4, 2013
Cham '11

Bang? Yes you can modify the older Quark Cascade pick to use in the Nomic or newer Quark. 2 minutes on a grinder if you know what you are doing and don't require a carabiner hole in the head of the tool. More effort than it is worth if you want that hole.

Figure 4? If the last time you climbed ice was 20 years ago, likely you not be needing a Figure 4 :)

A pair of Nomics and a full rack of Helix will WOW your ice world as is.

The idea (for the most part) is to get your weight on your arms when there is nothing for your feet. Up there with one arm pull ups...nice if you can do them. But not everyone need apply.


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By Unassigned User
Mar 4, 2013

Thanks!
Yes that kind of move is way more 'advanced' then I def have the need for yet! LOL.

I have climbed with a pair of Viper's last week and just added the Nomic to my collection as I have always wanted one of them as well. The Viper's worked extremely well versus the Grivel's and such that we had back in the early 90's - tho the Grivel 45 cm's were pretty damn good at that time with their 'Terrordactyl' picks that were just coming out back then. I climbed Grivel step in crampons (G2's maybe?) and Footfangs back then and had good luck with both as well.

But I have to admit - I was completely blown away placing one of the newer BD Turbo ince screws versus the old Chouinard screws we had back then! Man! What a diff!


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