| New Hampshire |
 |
| |
Kayte Knower making the clip at the start of the c...
Description New Hampshire is the Granite State. The state moto is "Live Free or Die." Need more be said? Actually though, the rock in this state comes in many forms, from the rounded boulders of Pawtuckaway in the South to the clean fractured granite of Cannon Cliff in the North. We even have a world class sport climbing area, though the cliffs at Rumney are mostly schist. On the other side of the mountains, North Conway has its own scene and two of the best trad cliffs around. Cathedral and Whitehorse Ledges are just minutes from town. All of this within a state that is small enough to fit into some of your National Parks out West. Whether you consider yourself a hard core traditionalist or a sport climbing wunderkind, there is a wealth of climbing to be found in this small state. Plus, there's some die-hard Libertarian blood around here, so don't expect to pay any taxes. And fall around these parts can be pretty close to heaven.
Getting There Despite its diminutive size, New Hampshire should be found on most maps of the U.S. Manchester hosts a major regional airport. The Boston airport is less than a three hour drive from most points in the state.
Peregrines Please note that seasonal peregrine closures affect many cliffs in the state. Please check the information kiosks for more information. The closures are usually clearly marked.
Vegetation | This is a picture of a boy being eaten by a tree on a winter ascent of Rock Rimmon... the trees get hungry... Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 15, 2008
| New Hampshire has no shortage of vegetation growing on the rock. While climbers should try to be respectful of the local flora, sometimes it feels like we are fighting a losing battle with the mosses, bushes, and trees that continually try to engulf the rock. It's not uncommon to find that a cleaned route has returned to its original scruffy state after only a year of neglect. The remedy? Get out and climb the routes!
Ethics The climbing areas in New Hampshire display diverse ethics, though some common threads can be found. No chipping, drilling of holds, or modifying of existed routes. Beyond that, consider the local area's specific ethics. What's acceptable at Rumney might not be acceptable at Cathedral, for example. If you have any questions, ask a local, get a consensus (no small feat, to be sure), and think before you act.
The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for New Hampshire:
Browse More Classics in New Hampshire
News and Events For New Hampshire
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Featured Route For New Hampshire
Who Needs Feet? V4 NH : Pawtuckaway : ... : Conditions Boulder
A classic slopey traverse on a boulder away from the crowds. Sit start the left side of the face with an undercling in a crack. Pull up to the lip, hang off those slopers and traverse your way right. When the slopers end, mantle on up (this happens to be the crux), and top it out. Fun and worth the walk.... [more] Browse More Classics in NH
Remember your first time in the mountains? Franco...
| Winter '09. Why did I move to this state?
| Famous climber. Posted for a thread. Hi Jay!
| Just a few photos of NH climbing I put into a coll...
| Your administrator.
| A night bouldering session in the woods of NH.
| Cool problem in the Hanover area.
| Tim getting the beta right.
| Really fun boulder problem in the Hanover area.
| BETA PHOTO: anyone know anything about this cliff... i think i...
| Cannon Cliff while driving north on interstate 93.
| heading into crawford notch for another climbing a...
| Bouldering in NH. photo: Ryan Nicholson
| The Guides Wall,Cathedral and Humphrey's seen from...
| Olga Mirkina starting up a TR run of "Fat and Happ...
| chinos mt club,watch out here we come!
| East flank of Mt. Washington and the Presidentials
| Chistopher Denver, getting ready to crank a new ro...
| dennis the menace getting ready to climb (Zackary)
| Come check out our Community Bouldering Fundraiser...
| Manchester
| Stone bridge in Hillsboro
| Acworth bouldering
| Acworth
| Bouldering Acworth
| River
| River
| Stone Arch Bridge Keene, NH. This thing was built...
| The Presidentials from South Twin Mtn
| We are excited to announce that Manchester Vertica...
| | | |
| Comments on New Hampshire |
|
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH May 10, 2007
| For a sampling of New Hampshire climbing check out the film Uncommon Ground |
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Feb 1, 2008
| All of New Hampshire's ice and alpine climbs have been moved so that they can be found under a single heading. If you are looking for (or planning on adding to) the ice routes in the database, then click on "NH Ice and Alpine Climbing" above. |
By john strand From: southern colo May 22, 2008
| I do not climb in the area anymore since I live in southern colo now, but I would really like to contribute some routes and/or comments. I have about 25 years climbing in NH as well as the rest of New England including about 50 F/A,s Big question- most of my photos are slides, can these be scanned and put on the site ?\\ talk soon , john |
By jason seaver From: Estes Park, CO May 27, 2008
| Hi John, I'd love to see some of your photos on this site. It would be great to have some contributions / stories from your days around NE. I know your slides can be scanned but you need a slide scanner which might be expensive, I don't know. Maybe you know someone with one? Anyone else have better advice? Cheers, Jason |
By jason seaver From: Estes Park, CO May 27, 2008
| Nice..... Thanks Bob. John, I'll look forward to seeing your photos and contributions. I love that photo in Webster's guidebook of you on Unwanted Guests. I've rapped past those non-existent footholds, and have always wondered what the hell you were standing on in that photo. Good luck, Jason |
By john strand From: southern colo Jun 24, 2008
| Please check for seasonal Peregrine closures throughout the state |
By matthewWallace From: plymouth, nh Jan 7, 2009
| I have a question, I hiked Rattlesnake Mountain in Holderness NH this is the mountain that looks over Squam Lake, not the one in Rumney, while doing this I walked down infront of the slabs there and found three short sport routes four or five bolts a piece, does anybody know anyting about these routes, before I get on them? Also does anybody know Trad routes that are there. Thank you for any help in advance. |
By matthewWallace From: plymouth, nh Jan 13, 2009
| I am curious if anyone else thinks putting up indoor gyms on this site would be a good idea. I believe it would be because it would provided places for people to train and for people to go on bad outdoor days, also it will benefit the climbing community by developing newer climbers and it will benefit the gyms by bringing in new customers. There would have to be regulations for this such as not posting routes it would just be a way to get the gyms more known and develop the climbing community. What are your thoughts... |
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Jan 14, 2009
| We already invented the wheel on that one. ?? |
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Apr 30, 2009
| jakob and i climbed cathedral, whitehorse, and cannon cliff within 17 hrs the other day (and night)... The idea was to do what we see as the 3 proudest cliffs in a day or so... now that we see how fun and easy it was taking the moderate routes we are thinking of doing some harder routes in the same style... here is a video of the adventure:
|
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH May 1, 2009
| Nice video Lee. I especially like the Cannon footage. Wind blowing, getting lost. It really captures the Cannon experience. |
By Peter Beal From: Boulder Colorado May 1, 2009
| Agreed, though the Cathedral footage was a bit underexposed:) Thanks for posting it! |
By matthewWallace From: plymouth, nh May 1, 2009
| Lee cool video looks like a fun way to spend 17hrs... |
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh May 1, 2009
| Yeah peter i was bummed about how dark to night footage was... but it was an important part of the adventure... glad you liked it over all... |
By Peter Beal From: Boulder Colorado May 2, 2009
| Bombardment was my first 5.8 lead way way back and still stands as one of the great pitches of the grade in NH. |
By matthewWallace From: plymouth, nh May 18, 2009
| I heard a rumor of a multipitch slab climb in Crawford Notch (Willey Slide area?). The description I recieved was three maybe four pitches of 5.6ish slab climbing anyone know anything about this? |
By nhclimber From: Newmarket, NH May 19, 2009
| TONS of climbing in Crawford notch. Mt Webster slabs has old and new routes some documented (bore tide, lost in the sun), some not. Mt willard has a ton of classics. Lots of slab climbing with a traditional bolting ethic. |
By Adam Wilcox From: Candia, NH May 19, 2009
| Yeah, Lost in the Sun (5.5) and Bore Tide (5.6). Each is 6-8 pitches or so. You park at the Willey Slide turn out, cross the river and wander up to the Slabs on Mt. Webster. You can find directions and a topo at NEClimbs. I climbed Lost in the Sun in October '07 as my first decent multipitch trad climb. It was a good experience, and with more efficiency than I had at the time you could bag both routes in a day easily. All the belays are bolted and you'll only need a light rack. You will need two ropes to rap, as the routes don't top out. I'd reccomend going during a dry spell, lots of the protection bolts were under running water and I had to trailblaze on easy runout ground a little. |
By nhclimber From: Newmarket, NH Jul 20, 2009
| I was going to add some routes on sundown's outback cliff, but I didn't think that they really belong in the same section. It would be like lumping painted walls and rainbow slab together. Actually those cliffs are closer together than sundown main cliff and the outback cliff. Any thoughts? |
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Aug 18, 2009
| I combined all of the crags off the Kanc into the Kancamagus Crags area. This includes Sundown, Woodchuck, Painted Walls, etc. I also added Sundown's Outback Cliff under that area. Having never climbed there, I don't know much about it. Nhclimber, it would be great if you would add routes/info to that cliff. |
By nhclimber From: Newmarket, NH Aug 18, 2009
| I'll get some info up, thanks for adding it. |
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Apr 2, 2010
| A Granite State of Mind: |
By Mike C. Robinson From: Rumney, NH Jun 22, 2010
| Please help me with the name aof the boulder at the rest stop off of 93 south between exit 20 and exit 18 |
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Jun 23, 2010
| Mike, I'm not sure of the name. It looks cool, though. |
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Jun 23, 2010
| i always called it the rest stop boulder... i dont know any names or grades but ive poked around on it... i know brett myers and company climbed some hard-ish highballs on the big boulder years ago... |
By matthewWallace From: plymouth, nh Jun 23, 2010
| Is it generally accepted to on the Rest Stop Boulder?I have seen it a few times from the highway and didnt know if it was ok to climb there. |
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Jun 23, 2010
| as far as i know climbing at the rest stop is legit... |
By bradley white From: Rumney, N.H. Jul 19, 2010
| The rest stop boulder was climbed in 1982? by Tom Bowker and Jay Golden. They may have actually led something up it, besides top roping on it. |
By Mike C. Robinson From: Rumney, NH Aug 10, 2010
| I spoke with a couple of the folks that work at this rest stop and no problems with climbing there, I cleaned a couple of (new?) lines on the right corner of the boulder as you are walking to it from the parking lot, V4ish and very good! |
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Nov 7, 2012
| This Friday Vertical Dreams Nashua will be hosting a Community Bouldering Fundraiser to support the Access Fund (the people who secured Rumney access for all of us)... Lets give back! Friday the 9th from 7pm-10pm, $20 gets you all new boulder problems! Pizza! and we have a pile of prizes and swag for you!!!!!!!! |
By James Otey From: NH Jan 2, 2013
| Join us this Saturday January 5th for the Grand Opening of Evolution Rock + Fitness, New Hampshire's newest climbing gym. We will be holding tons of promotional events, and expect a high energy day among community locals. For details check out www.evolutionrock.com. We'd love to see you there! Part of the proceeds will be going directly to the RCA. |
|