Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
New Hampshire
Select Area...
*NH Ice and Alpine Climbing 
Albany Slabs 
Artist's Bluff 
Attitash Crag 
Back Bay Stone Boulders 
Band M (CLOSED) 
Bartlett- Haystack 
Beaver Brook 
Big Rock Cave 
Bondcliff 
Brown's Ridge 
Bryant Ledge 
Cannon Cliff  
Captain, The 
Carter Ledge 
Cathedral Ledge 
Cave Mountain 
CMC Crag 
Concord Quarries DWS 
Crag In The Clouds 
Crawford Notch  
Crawford Notch Bouldering 
Deers Leap (Windham) 
Dumplington Hill (A.K.A. The Dump) 
Echo Crag 
Elephant's Head 
Ellis R Hatch Bouldering 
Exeter Boulder, The 
Franconia Notch Bouldering  
Garfield Crag 
Glen Boulder 
Great Rock - Sandown 
Greens Cliff  
Grimauld Place 
Hall's Ledge 
Haseltine Lot Bouldering 
Hounds Hump Ridge (Eaglet etc) 
Humphrey's Ledge 
Indian Head Cliff on Mt. Pemigewasset 
Indian Leap Falls 
Indoor Climbing Gyms 
Kancamagus Crags 
Laconia / Meredith Scraggly Granite Crack Wall (Needs some work) 
Lake Potanipo 
Madison Boulder 
Manchester Area Bouldering 
Massabesic Lake (a.k.a. Lake Ledges)(Auburn NH) 
Mount HogsBack 
Mount Major 
Mount Oscar 
Mt. Liberty, Franconia Notch  
Mt. Willard 
New Durham Area (South of Lake Winnipesaukee) 
Newfound Lake  
Newmarket (bouldering) 
North Percy Peak 
Owl's Cliff (off Kancamagus Hwy) 
Owl's Head Cliff (Oliverian Notch) 
Pawtuckaway 
Pelham Tree Farm Boulders 
Pick Of The Litter Cliff 
Pickledish 
Profile Cliff 
Rest Stop Boulders 
Rock Rimmon (Manchester) 
Roger's Ledge 
Rumney 
Saco Crag 
Sandwich Notch 
Square Ledge (Pinkham Notch) 
Stairs Mountain 
Stone Arch Bridge Keene, NH 
Stonehouse Pond 
Table Mountain Slab 
Thompson Farm  
Tripoli Road Crag 
Waterville Valley 
Webster Mountain Dome 
White Ledge (Albany) 
White's Ledge 
Whiteface Mountain 
Whitehorse Ledge 
Wild River Crags (aka Evans Notch) 

New Hampshire 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 43.5804, -71.7188 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 7,136,581
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Oct 11, 2006
Good Page?10 people like this page. Your opinion:   
Kayte Knower making the clip at the start of the c...

Description 

New Hampshire is the Granite State. The state moto is "Live Free or Die." Need more be said?

Actually though, the rock in this state comes in many forms, from the rounded boulders of Pawtuckaway in the South to the clean fractured granite of Cannon Cliff in the North. We even have a world class sport climbing area, though the cliffs at Rumney are mostly schist. On the other side of the mountains, North Conway has its own scene and two of the best trad cliffs around. Cathedral and Whitehorse Ledges are just minutes from town. All of this within a state that is small enough to fit into some of your National Parks out West.

Whether you consider yourself a hard core traditionalist or a sport climbing wunderkind, there is a wealth of climbing to be found in this small state. Plus, there's some die-hard Libertarian blood around here, so don't expect to pay any taxes. And fall around these parts can be pretty close to heaven.


Getting There 

Despite its diminutive size, New Hampshire should be found on most maps of the U.S.

Manchester hosts a major regional airport. The Boston airport is less than a three hour drive from most points in the state.


Peregrines 

Please note that seasonal peregrine closures affect many cliffs in the state. Please check the information kiosks for more information. The closures are usually clearly marked.


Vegetation 

This is a picture of a boy being eaten by a tree on a winter ascent of Rock Rimmon... the trees get hungry...
This is a picture of a boy being eaten by a tree on a winter ascent of Rock Rimmon... the trees get hungry...

New Hampshire has no shortage of vegetation growing on the rock. While climbers should try to be respectful of the local flora, sometimes it feels like we are fighting a losing battle with the mosses, bushes, and trees that continually try to engulf the rock. It's not uncommon to find that a cleaned route has returned to its original scruffy state after only a year of neglect. The remedy? Get out and climb the routes!


Ethics 

The climbing areas in New Hampshire display diverse ethics, though some common threads can be found. No chipping, drilling of holds, or modifying of existed routes. Beyond that, consider the local area's specific ethics. What's acceptable at Rumney might not be acceptable at Cathedral, for example. If you have any questions, ask a local, get a consensus (no small feat, to be sure), and think before you act.


3,273 Total Routes


['4 Stars',248],['3 Stars',1162],['2 Stars',1265],['1 Star',496],['Bomb',47]
['<=5.6',303],['5.7',210],['5.8',265],['5.9',276],['5.10',408],['5.11',308],['5.12',205],['5.13',71],['>=5.14',11],['',0],['<=V1',209],['V2-3',431],['V4-5',162],['V6-7',102],['V8-9',60],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',30],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for New Hampshire:
Clip a Dee Doo Dah   5.3 3+ 10 III VD 3a     Sport, 2 pitches, 300'   Rumney : Jimmy Cliff
Standard Route   5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a R     Trad, 9 pitches, 1100'   Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs
Thin Air   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, 4 pitches, 300'   Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face
Black Dike   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b WI4-5 M3     Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches, 400'   *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Cannon Ice Climbs
Whitney Gilman Ridge   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 600'   Cannon Cliff : 1. Whitney-Gilman Area
Moby Grape   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area
Junco   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Rumney : Jimmy Cliff
The Beast Flake   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   Cathedral Ledge : The Prow Area
Recompense   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   Cathedral Ledge : The Prow Area
They Died Laughing   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Cathedral Ledge : The North End
Underdog   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   Rumney : Main Cliff
The Book of Solemnity   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall
Lonesome Dove   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport   Rumney : Jimmy Cliff
Jolt   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b X     Sport, 1 pitch   Rumney : The Hinterlands
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M...
VMC Direct Direct   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 800'   Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall
Waimea   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Rumney : Waimea
Flying Hawaiian   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   Rumney : Waimea
The Prow   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Trad, 6 pitches, 350'   Cathedral Ledge : The Prow Area
Technosurfing   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Rumney : Waimea
Browse More Classics in New Hampshire

Featured Route For New Hampshire
Mike out on a cold day...

Cause for Commotion V3 6A  NH : Pawtuckaway : Round Pond
When reaching the top of the hill, one of the first lines that people notice is this sharp arete next to the trail. There used to be two good flakes on the left of the arete, but both have now ripped off and the scars are quite obvious. The quality of the line may have improved now that any loose rock is gone, but it doesn't climb quite like it used to. Sit start with the good rail down low, or use an optional crimp out left along with the rail and pull up to the arete. Grab the edge that is...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of New Hampshire Slideshow Add Photo
Remember your first time in the mountains? <br /> <br />Franconia Ridge, NH.
Remember your first time in the mountains?

Franco...
Chistopher Denver, getting ready to crank a new route. photo was taken in 2005.
Chistopher Denver, getting ready to crank a new ro...
Bouldering in NH. <br /> <br />photo: Ryan Nicholson
Bouldering in NH.

photo: Ryan Nicholson
Just a few photos of NH climbing I put into a collage
Just a few photos of NH climbing I put into a coll...
The Presidentials from South Twin Mountain
The Presidentials from South Twin Mountain
Acworth
Acworth
heading into crawford notch for another climbing adventure.
heading into crawford notch for another climbing a...
Sugar High project ****
Sugar High project ****
Olga Mirkina starting up a TR run of "Fat and Happy" a steep 12b/c sport route on the main wall of Durrell Mountain (aka Whiteface). Durrell Mountain is  a somewhat unknown area in Gilmanton, NH, kind of like a small version of Rumney, being a bunch of one pitch crags on a hillside with similar rock. Todd Swain is working on a guide that includes the area which should be out soon.
Olga Mirkina starting up a TR run of "Fat and Happ...
Hikers on top of Middle Sugarloaf
Hikers on top of Middle Sugarloaf
Cannon Cliff while driving north on interstate 93.
Cannon Cliff while driving north on interstate 93.
In Days of Old
In Days of Old
The Guides Wall,Cathedral and Humphrey's seen from top of Whitehourse slabs.
The Guides Wall,Cathedral and Humphrey's seen from...
Stone Arch Bridge Keene, NH.  This thing was built way back in the day without motar.  It's quite the structure and great for climbing. Just minutes from campus/mainstreet.  Watch out for poison ivy if you set up on sections other than in pic.
Stone Arch Bridge Keene, NH. This thing was built...
anyone know anything about this cliff... i think its on the south side of Mount Garfield... this is the view from Mount Lincoln...
BETA PHOTO: anyone know anything about this cliff... i think i...
Really fun boulder problem in the Hanover area.
Really fun boulder problem in the Hanover area.
Heart of the Night 12c, 80' Hart's Ledge classic, Bartlett, NH
Heart of the Night 12c, 80' Hart's Ledge classic, ...
chinos mt club,watch out here we come!
chinos mt club,watch out here we come!
River
River
East flank of Mt. Washington and the Presidentials
East flank of Mt. Washington and the Presidentials
We are excited to announce that Manchester Vertical Dreams will be hosting a slide show by Joe Kinder on Tuesday, May 14th at 7:00pm... Come meet him, check out his amazing photos and videos and listen to stories of his climbing experiences from around the world! <br /> <br />Joe is a former Vertical Dreams local and is psyched to come back and share his endless energy with the current breed of NH climbers! <br /> <br />We are asking for a suggested donation of $5 for Joe who is a hard working guy and deserves to be paid for his time and effort :)
We are excited to announce that Manchester Vertica...
Tim getting the beta right.
Tim getting the beta right.
40 foot monster at the Sugar Maple Grove Boulders, Hart's Ledge, Bartlett
40 foot monster at the Sugar Maple Grove Boulders,...
Cool problem in the Hanover area.
Cool problem in the Hanover area.
Bouldering Acworth
Bouldering Acworth
Famous climber.  Posted for a thread.  Hi Jay!
Famous climber. Posted for a thread. Hi Jay!
River
River
Manchester
Manchester
Your administrator.
Your administrator.
Stone bridge in Hillsboro
Stone bridge in Hillsboro
20 foot tall beauty, one of the Sugar Maple Grove boulders, an impressive collection of quality boulders up to 40 feet tall below Hart's Ledge in Bartlett. <br />Handren's guide lists the crack towards the right side as a 3 out of 3 star V7 (no name given). Access is very easy, 15 minutes along a mellow logging road
20 foot tall beauty, one of the Sugar Maple Grove ...
Acworth bouldering
Acworth bouldering
The old sugar shack, Sugar Maple Grove Boulders, Hart's Ledge, Bartlett
The old sugar shack, Sugar Maple Grove Boulders, H...
A night bouldering session in the woods of NH.
A night bouldering session in the woods of NH.
I know its not in NH but I'm pretty psyched to take a road trip here sometime soon :P
I know its not in NH but I'm pretty psyched to tak...
Winter '09. Why did I move to this state?
Winter '09. Why did I move to this state?
Come check out our Community Bouldering Fundraiser to benefit the Access Fund!!!!!!!!!!!
Come check out our Community Bouldering Fundraiser...
dennis the menace getting ready to climb (Zackary)
dennis the menace getting ready to climb (Zackary)
Big cliff in Berlin, NH. Anybody know what its called?
Big cliff in Berlin, NH. Anybody know what its cal...
Comments on New Hampshire Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 22, 2014
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Feb 1, 2008

All of New Hampshire's ice and alpine climbs have been moved so that they can be found under a single heading. If you are looking for (or planning on adding to) the ice routes in the database, then click on "NH Ice and Alpine Climbing" above.

By john strand
From: southern colo
May 22, 2008

I do not climb in the area anymore since I live in southern colo now, but I would really like to contribute some routes and/or comments.
I have about 25 years climbing in NH as well as the rest of New England including about 50 F/A,s

Big question- most of my photos are slides, can these be scanned and put on the site ?\\

talk soon ,

john

By jason seaver
From: Estes Park, CO
May 27, 2008

Hi John, I'd love to see some of your photos on this site. It would be great to have some contributions / stories from your days around NE. I know your slides can be scanned but you need a slide scanner which might be expensive, I don't know. Maybe you know someone with one?

Anyone else have better advice?

Cheers, Jason

By jason seaver
From: Estes Park, CO
May 27, 2008

Nice..... Thanks Bob.

John, I'll look forward to seeing your photos and contributions.

I love that photo in Webster's guidebook of you on Unwanted Guests. I've rapped past those non-existent footholds, and have always wondered what the hell you were standing on in that photo.

Good luck, Jason

By john strand
From: southern colo
Jun 24, 2008

Please check for seasonal Peregrine closures throughout the state

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jan 7, 2009

I have a question, I hiked Rattlesnake Mountain in Holderness NH this is the mountain that looks over Squam Lake, not the one in Rumney, while doing this I walked down infront of the slabs there and found three short sport routes four or five bolts a piece, does anybody know anyting about these routes, before I get on them? Also does anybody know Trad routes that are there.


Thank you for any help in advance.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jan 13, 2009

I am curious if anyone else thinks putting up indoor gyms on this site would be a good idea. I believe it would be because it would provided places for people to train and for people to go on bad outdoor days, also it will benefit the climbing community by developing newer climbers and it will benefit the gyms by bringing in new customers.

There would have to be regulations for this such as not posting routes it would just be a way to get the gyms more known and develop the climbing community.

What are your thoughts...

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jan 14, 2009

We already invented the wheel on that one.

??

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 30, 2009

jakob and i climbed cathedral, whitehorse, and cannon cliff within 17 hrs the other day (and night)... The idea was to do what we see as the 3 proudest cliffs in a day or so... now that we see how fun and easy it was taking the moderate routes we are thinking of doing some harder routes in the same style... here is a video of the adventure:

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 1, 2009

Nice video Lee. I especially like the Cannon footage. Wind blowing, getting lost. It really captures the Cannon experience.

By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
May 1, 2009

Agreed, though the Cathedral footage was a bit underexposed:) Thanks for posting it!

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
May 1, 2009

Lee cool video looks like a fun way to spend 17hrs...

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 1, 2009

Yeah peter i was bummed about how dark to night footage was... but it was an important part of the adventure... glad you liked it over all...

By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
May 2, 2009

Bombardment was my first 5.8 lead way way back and still stands as one of the great pitches of the grade in NH.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
May 18, 2009

I heard a rumor of a multipitch slab climb in Crawford Notch (Willey Slide area?). The description I recieved was three maybe four pitches of 5.6ish slab climbing anyone know anything about this?

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
May 19, 2009

TONS of climbing in Crawford notch. Mt Webster slabs has old and new routes some documented (bore tide, lost in the sun), some not. Mt willard has a ton of classics. Lots of slab climbing with a traditional bolting ethic.

By Adam Wilcox
From: Candia, NH
May 19, 2009

Yeah, Lost in the Sun (5.5) and Bore Tide (5.6). Each is 6-8 pitches or so. You park at the Willey Slide turn out, cross the river and wander up to the Slabs on Mt. Webster. You can find directions and a topo at NEClimbs.

I climbed Lost in the Sun in October '07 as my first decent multipitch trad climb. It was a good experience, and with more efficiency than I had at the time you could bag both routes in a day easily. All the belays are bolted and you'll only need a light rack. You will need two ropes to rap, as the routes don't top out. I'd reccomend going during a dry spell, lots of the protection bolts were under running water and I had to trailblaze on easy runout ground a little.

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Jul 20, 2009

I was going to add some routes on sundown's outback cliff, but I didn't think that they really belong in the same section. It would be like lumping painted walls and rainbow slab together. Actually those cliffs are closer together than sundown main cliff and the outback cliff. Any thoughts?

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Aug 18, 2009

I combined all of the crags off the Kanc into the Kancamagus Crags area. This includes Sundown, Woodchuck, Painted Walls, etc.

I also added Sundown's Outback Cliff under that area. Having never climbed there, I don't know much about it. Nhclimber, it would be great if you would add routes/info to that cliff.

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Aug 18, 2009

I'll get some info up, thanks for adding it.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Apr 2, 2010

A Granite State of Mind:

By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
Jun 22, 2010

Please help me with the name aof the boulder at the rest stop off of 93 south between exit 20 and exit 18

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jun 23, 2010

Mike, I'm not sure of the name. It looks cool, though.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 23, 2010

i always called it the rest stop boulder... i dont know any names or grades but ive poked around on it... i know brett myers and company climbed some hard-ish highballs on the big boulder years ago...

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jun 23, 2010

Is it generally accepted to on the Rest Stop Boulder?I have seen it a few times from the highway and didnt know if it was ok to climb there.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 23, 2010

as far as i know climbing at the rest stop is legit...

By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Jul 19, 2010

The rest stop boulder was climbed in 1982? by Tom Bowker and Jay Golden. They may have actually led something up it, besides top roping on it.

By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
Aug 10, 2010

I spoke with a couple of the folks that work at this rest stop and no problems with climbing there, I cleaned a couple of (new?) lines on the right corner of the boulder as you are walking to it from the parking lot, V4ish and very good!

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 7, 2012

This Friday Vertical Dreams Nashua will be hosting a Community Bouldering Fundraiser to support the Access Fund (the people who secured Rumney access for all of us)... Lets give back!
Friday the 9th from 7pm-10pm, $20 gets you all new boulder problems! Pizza! and we have a pile of prizes and swag for you!!!!!!!!

By James Otey
From: NH
Jan 2, 2013

Join us this Saturday January 5th for the Grand Opening of Evolution Rock + Fitness, New Hampshire's newest climbing gym. We will be holding tons of promotional events, and expect a high energy day among community locals. For details check out www.evolutionrock.com. We'd love to see you there!

Part of the proceeds will be going directly to the RCA.

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
2 days ago

Was Joe English Hill (New Boston AF tracking station) removed from the site recently? I vaguely recall it having a section at mentioning that access was uncertain but I at least remember their being a page of discussion. Is anyone certain?

By Glenn Cilley
From: Laconia, NH
13 hours ago

I have a Joe English guide book