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New Hampshire winter rock climb

Original Post
Stu Mack · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 0

Hi all
Heard the area got some snow the past few days. Are Any recommended routes/areas for some winter climbing with rock gear only?

Looking at Cannon and Rumney.

also could be interested in hiking Mount Washington. Anyone know the what the weather is like there or hike tuckermans ravine trail recently?

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
StuMM wrote:also could be interested in hiking Mount Washington. Anyone know the what the weather is like there or hike tuckermans ravine trail recently?
http://bfy.tw/3Ug2

mountwashington.org/experie…

mountwashingtonavalanchecen…
Cron · · Maine / NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 60

By winter climbing w/ rock gear do mean like using ice tools and crampons but protecting with bolts and trad gear? Or just rock climbing while it's cold and snowy?

Either way, Rumney has options. Although it's generally poor etiquette to scrape your way up a popular sport route.

I imagine that thin ice in Huntington's protects well w/ just trad gear right about now, but ask someone who's been up there recently.

Luc-514 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 12,536

I think there's a lot of routes (Whitney-Gilman for sure) that have been done in the winter on Cannon but you'll need crampons or spikes for the hike in and out.

Andrew Blease · · Bartlett, NH · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 470

Some of the stuff on Willard has been trad gear friendly but it's starting to for up fast. It's currently nuking everywhere here and getting colder. You'd be better off to beg/borrow/steal/buy some ice screws.

Stu Mack · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 0

Yeah, trying to do some cold rock climbing, no ice tools. Looking for routes that stay snow and ice free for the most part, a little rime never hurt anyone!

Thanks for the Mt. Washington sites, saw them earlier. Trying to see if anyone out there has hiked it recently.

ChrisN · · Morro Bay, CA · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 25

Head south! Longstack Precipice outside of Alton is south facing. Should be good on a sunny day.

Derek Jf · · Northeast · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 335
StuMM wrote:Hi all Heard the area got some snow the past few days. Are Any recommended routes/areas for some winter climbing with rock gear only? Looking at Cannon and Rumney. also could be interested in hiking Mount Washington. Anyone know the what the weather is like there or hike tuckermans ravine trail recently?
With an opening line like that go for it, your stoke for climbing is more noble than many right now.
Go big and hit em all in a 24 hr period. This weather, you should have a decent shot and actually have a pleasant time doing it.... I'd suggest the Lionshead-WG-IronMan link up, working your way from the MW Valley back to the Notch then down to Rattlesnake. You'll be in Plymouth sippin a hot tea before you know it
john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640
ChrisN wrote:Head south! Longstack Precipice outside of Alton is south facing. Should be good on a sunny day.
Too true..this place can have really good winter conditions. Sometimes Whitehorse South Butt and parts of Sundown Main cliff as well.
Stu Mack · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 0
Derek Jf wrote: With an opening line like that go for it, your stoke for climbing is more noble than many right now. Go big and hit em all in a 24 hr period. This weather, you should have a decent shot and actually have a pleasant time doing it.... I'd suggest the Lionshead-WG-IronMan link up, working your way from the MW Valley back to the Notch then down to Rattlesnake. You'll be in Plymouth sippin a hot tea before you know it
Hey with a plan like that you should come with. We can bat eachothers knockers around in Plymouth.
Stu Mack · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 0
ChrisN wrote:Head south! Longstack Precipice outside of Alton is south facing. Should be good on a sunny day.
Thanks looking into this now!
Derek Jf · · Northeast · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 335
StuMM wrote: Hey with a plan like that you should come with. We can bat eachothers knockers around in Plymouth.
I would be honored Sir Stu, beginning my approach slosh after yesterday soon. meet at pinkham?
Russ Keane · · Salt Lake · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 392

You should focus on south facing cliffs, with open aspects so it might be dry and snow-free.... and friendly multi-pitch routes......

Something that comes to mind is White's Ledge in Bartlett. There's a cool climb called "Endeavor" which could be done in winter conditions.

Also like Strand Man said, you could try Whitehourse south buttress. Get on Hotter than Hell, link it up with Tranquility upper.... that would be a good day for sure.

Rumney is going to be dank, gnarly, wet, and not too much fun. Plus it's just single pitch sport. Cannon is just plain ol' wild and dangerous. But as mentioned Whitney G is doable.

You mentioned Mt Washington. I think the ravine trails are snow/ice/slush concoctions, and the weather is now totally variable and prone to deterioration. You are definitely not rock climbing up there.

good luck

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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