New Grivel Twin Gate Carabiner
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Thoughts? I find it amazing how easily the guy rips normal carabiners off of a bolt/piton/ice screw and pulls a rope threw a normal carabiner. |
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Agreed. Don't back clip and you shouldn't really have much problem with carabiners unclipping, making this new type unnecessary. That being said it's at least an interesting idea which some might find useful in it's extra security. I think I would spend too long fumbling around with trying to grab the right gate when clipping. I'd have to get my hands on one to see how much that would suck, but I won't buy one because I don't make a habit of back clipping and have never had anything unclip itself from my protection. |
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Wow. I think that's a really cool idea. |
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D.Buffum wrote:I think it's a solution in search of a problem.Only problem with your analysis is that it solves more than one problem. I have had locking biners unscrew and come open using auto bloc bringing up two climbers. My prediction is that this carabiner will be successful. |
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I must have this for my chalkbag and the trad gear that goes with my gym climbing harness. |
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This twin gate design reminds me of the bi-wire carabiner by Rock Exotica but the opposition of the two gates does seem to make it easier to work one-handed when clipping gear to the biner (at least in the marketing video). I think though that having the gates pointing the same direction as on the bi-wire might make it easier to clip the biner to a bolt/pro. |
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I think it's overkill honestly. It solves a problem that doesn't really exist if a carabiner is used properly - just like any other piece of pro. Use a wired nut wrong, or a cam, or anything else - and you risk a mishap. Same with a 'biner. |
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A solution in need of a problem, I'd say. In 42 years of climbing I've never had a rope unclip itself from a biner. I'm sure it happens but its not something I'm going to worry about. |
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I would put it in the same category as the BD magnetron 'biners. It's a fun gimic that makes certain things marginally safer or more convenient once you get the ergonomics down. But I wouldn't expect to see either as commonplace for anything but the odd belay/rap/anchor biner. That said I think both are interesting ideas and would love for one of my friends to buy one of these so I could play with it. |
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Nate Solnit wrote:I would put it in the same category as the BD magnetron 'biners. It's a fun gimic that makes certain things marginally safer or more convenient once you get the ergonomics down. But I wouldn't expect to see either as commonplace for anything but the odd belay/rap/anchor biner. That said I think both are interesting ideas and would love for one of my friends to buy one of these so I could play with it.Agreed! The Magetron is a costly solution to a problem that doesn't exist IMHO! I never had ANY of my lockers unlock on me in 30 yrs of climbing on and off! All it is is a marketing gimmick to spend money. |
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This reminds me of the debate between belaying with an ATC versus a Grigri. The Grigri is in no way designed to be held without a hand still on the brake rope, and you should always belay using the proper technique and never get into the habit of thinking you can belay without a hand on the brake rope. Use the Grigri like you would an ATC, and it's designed to be a last backup in case an accident happened. |
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drifen wrote:This twin gate design reminds me of the bi-wire carabiner by Rock Exotica but the opposition of the two gates does seem to make it easier to work one-handed when clipping gear to the biner (at least in the marketing video). I think though that having the gates pointing the same direction as on the bi-wire might make it easier to clip the biner to a bolt/pro.Yes, I was going to get a couple of these when they first came out, but got tired of them being on backorder, waiting for first delivery to supply Rock Exotica,,and then I just forgot to even get any. Looks awkward to use, but a nice safety feature for light weight biners. |
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brianjames wrote:Thoughts? I find it amazing how easily the guy rips normal carabiners off of a bolt/piton/ice screw...except that in real life this isn't possible due to the fact that the rock or ice is in the way of the carabiner moving in the way that he does it in the video. However, I do think that this is a cool concept for an easier to use locker for those times when you'd like the extra security of a locker, but don't want to mess around with a screwgate. As you can see in the video, you obviously can get pretty efficient at unclipping/clipping this thing with enough practice. |
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Not in a million years would I mess with this Biner on an ice climb... Could you even imagine trying to open the gate and cliping a screw with gloves on? Even my dry tools gloves get caught in the clip from time to time let alone ice gloves! Solution to a problem that doesn't exist... It'd be quicker to put on a locker probably because you wouldn't have to spin the barrel while in racking and would be safe while spinning the barrel if you were some kind of nervous weirdo that thought biners unclipped from pro all the time!! |
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Eli Harry wrote:Not in a million years would I mess with this Biner on an ice climb... Could you even imagine trying to open the gate and cliping a screw with gloves on? Even my dry tools gloves get caught in the clip from time to time let alone ice gloves! Solution to a problem that doesn't exist... It'd be quicker to put on a locker probably because you wouldn't have to spin the barrel while in racking and would be safe while spinning the barrel if you were some kind of nervous weirdo that thought biners unclipped from pro all the time!!A friend had one at the indoor gym a few weeks ago and I tried it and didn't care for it at all. I had all I could with a ungloved hand to open it when I wanted to vs. trying to do so while ice climbing with gloves on, etc. I stick with my Twist Locks or Screw Gate 'biners. Less costly too.... |
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Initial reports on these are quite positive. cold thistle blog in particular (a place that doesn't accept crap gear) likes them a lot. email to USA distributor indicates Spring '15 availability. |
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I checked just a couple days ago,,,still NONE shown from the listed source to purchase here in the US....again,,like other items shown in Climbing and Rock and Ice ads,,,the ads precede the production by months and months sometimes....so I'm not expecting to find any until late spring,,if I even care by then anymore. |
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I had a rope come unclipped from a pin on an aid route once. But only because I had clipped a biner directly into the pin and to the rope with no sling (ran out of draws), and it dident really matter as I had 30 other pieces clipped to the rope. Other than that, in 11 years of climbing I have never seen a rope accidentally come unclipped. That said, it has happened as mentioned on this forum, but it is rare. |
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Woodchuck ATC wrote:I checked just a couple days ago,,,still NONE shown from the listed source to purchase here in the US....again,,like other items shown in Climbing and Rock and Ice ads,,,the ads precede the production by months and months sometimes....so I'm not expecting to find any until late spring,,if I even care by then anymore.Ordered some from the UK. Will post up impressions. 20kn wrote:Other than that, in 11 years of climbing I have never seen a rope accidentally come unclipped. That said, it has happened as mentioned on this forum, but it is rare.I've never had it happen in 22 years of climbing. That said, quoting another writer (who's name escapes me at the moment) "I do not believe it is irrational to prepare for very low-probability events which, should they occur, would produce the worst suffering imaginable for oneself and those one loves." One can identify, for the most part, mission critical pieces and opt to implement means to increase their effectiveness. I'm hoping this tech aids in that effort a bit. |
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I'm surprised no one has posted this on this thread: rockandice.com/lates-news/t… |
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You know I love my BD magnetron, I use it on my anchor chain and its great for that, don't know that i would ever buy another one, and I could see this twin-gate carabiner fitting a pretty similar niche. I could see myself buying one to play with and use as an locking carabiner. But then again i'm the guy that likes to play with the "cool" new gadget that is really pretty useless. |