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New Fascination 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
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Page Views: 752
Submitted By: Lurker on Mar 13, 2012

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  • Seasonal Raptor Closure-lifted for 2016 MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closure at Black Wall-Lifted 2016 MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Killer 3 pitch link-up...one of the best routes on Black Wall. P1(.10b or .10d): climb Firecracker (.10b) or New Moon (.10d) to the first anchors on One Hand Clapping. P2(.9): climb 2nd pitch of One Hand Clapping; belay at anchors past the crux bulge. P3(.10c): instead of heading left to Lizard Ledge, head straight up from belay, traverse slightly right, and finish on the thin crack of Fascination.

    Location 

    Start up and to the right of One Hand Clapping. Walk off (recommended), or you can rap the route (may need 2 ropes).

    Protection 

    Gear to 4", chain anchors.


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