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New Durham Area (South of Lake Winnipesaukee)

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Devil's Den  
Longstack Precipice  
Mt. Molly  
Pleasant Valley 
Rand Mountain  
Rines Hill  

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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

New Durham Area (South of Lake Winnipesaukee) 


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Location: 43.4345, -71.169 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 147,611
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: chinos on May 22, 2011
Forecast:
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Your opinion of this PAGE:    [3 people like this page.]
base of the land of overhangs

Description 

The New Durham Area consists of multiple crags Mount Molly, Rand Mountain, Devils Den, Rines Hill, Longstack, and Pleasant Valley all located on the east side of Lake Winnipesaukee. The town lines of New Durham, Alton, and Wolfeboro run through the area of the crags. The town of Wolfeboro provides stores and many great places to eat right on the lake. Camping areas can be found nearby, but you can also camp out off the class 6 road past Longstack or out by Devils Den. Please do not camp out in the parking areas for the crags. Also respect the area and pick up your trash and trash others have left behind. The ATV club has trash cans at the shooting range near Longstack. Mountain Bikes are a great way to reach many of the areas if you don't want to drive down the class 6 dirt roads.

The area had been climbed for years, but there was a lack of leadable routes in the area. In 2008, a group of locals got tired of top roping these great climbs and started scrubbing and developing the area. This crew is known as the Chinos (Chinos Mountain Club). It was a massive effort to establish the trails and routes. Since then, many of the members have moved on to Colorado and North Conway.

All of the crags offer various styles of climbing. Most of these areas offer great views of the surrounding mountains, lake Winni, and Merrymeeting lake. Longstack is one of the fastest drying cliffs in NH and can be climbed within a couple hours after rain.

Ice routes can also be found on the slabs at Devils Den, The lower area at Mount Molly, and the main ice area, Pleasant Valley.

There is now a guidebook for the area "The Chinos Guide: Climbing in the New Durham Area", written by a local Jonathan Garlough. This guidebook can be found at International Mountain Equipment (IME) in North Conway, Stay Tuned in Wolfeboro, Chessler Books online, and hopefully more areas soon...


Getting There 

Devils Den, Mount Molly, Rines Hill, and Longstack are all reached from route 28 in Alton near the Wolfeboro town line. Rand Mountain is located off of Middleton Road in New Durham.


243 Total Routes


['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',56],['2 Stars',99],['1 Star',76],['Bomb',4]
['<=5.6',17],['5.7',26],['5.8',37],['5.9',40],['5.10',49],['5.11',21],['5.12',5],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',7],['V2-3',15],['V4-5',4],['V6-7',2],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for New Durham Area (South of Lake Winnipesaukee):
Polar Circus   WI5-     Ice, 1 pitch, 60'   Pleasant Valley : Polar Circus Area
Coyote Rain   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   Longstack Precipice : Wonderland Wall
The Arete   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 55'   Longstack Precipice : The Big Wall
Layback Route   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 170'   Longstack Precipice : The Big Wall
Hole in the Roof   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 65'   Devil's Den : The Land of Overhangs
Hellraiser   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 55'   Devil's Den : The Slab Wall
Strychnine   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   Longstack Precipice : Indigenous Wall
Riptide   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 170'   Longstack Precipice : The Big Wall
The Great White Roof   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Rand Mountain
Velvet Underground   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 100'   Longstack Precipice : Indigenous Wall
Winter Classic   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 135'   Longstack Precipice : Wonderland Wall
Locals Only   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 170'   Longstack Precipice : The Big Wall
Still Gettin' Booty   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 95'   Longstack Precipice : Indigenous Wall
Stolen   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 50'   Devil's Den : The Slab Wall
Wonderland   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 150'   Longstack Precipice : Wonderland Wall
Knights in White Spandex   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Rand Mountain
Go-Go Gadget Arm   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 50'   Devil's Den : The Land of Overhangs
She's Out of Reach   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 90'   Longstack Precipice : The Big Wall
Gentle Violence   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 65'   Longstack Precipice : Wonderland Wall
Devil Man   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 45'   Devil's Den : The Outback Wall
Browse More Classics in New Durham Area (South of Lake Winnipesaukee)

Featured Route For New Durham Area (South of Lake Winnipesaukee)
Looking straight up the climb.

Polar Circus WI5-  NH : New Durham Area (South of ... : ... : Polar Circus Area
Climb up sustained WI4ish face to the pillar. The pillar only connects at the top and bottom , as it flows over an overhanging rock wall. It has only one known lead ascent and rarely comes in fat....[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of New Durham Area (South of Lake Winnipesaukee) Slideshow Add Photo
Some of them were just here----- careful
Some of them were just here----- careful
very true words
BETA PHOTO: very true words
Comments on New Durham Area (South of Lake Winnipesaukee) Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 20, 2013
By jimmi jazz
From: new durham nh
May 24, 2011

went to the den on tuesday and the gates are open and the road is passable.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
May 24, 2011

I've reorganized the New Durham pages, which included breaking Devil's Den into separate areas.

For the description of each of the cliffs, I've added "tba" (to be added). If you'd like to add a description for the cliffs, that would be great. Just post the description as a comment, and I'll integrate it into the page and reassign the page to you.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jun 14, 2011

Is there any guide book for this area?

By joshua corbett
From: Wolfeboro NH
Jun 14, 2011

Matt,there is no real guide book but jon has made a small one for the locals.If your planing to come down let me know i know where 95% of the routes are.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jun 15, 2011

Awesome thanks man!

By jimmi jazz
From: new durham nh
Apr 24, 2012

the gates are open. road to the den is ok. climb on!!

By crimsonraen
Sep 22, 2012

Hey, question for you! At the end of Copple Crown rd, there's a hiking trail that leads up a 'mountain', which has some top anchors.. I saw these before I got into climbing, and I don't live in the area, but I was wondering if this was the area you're talking about on this page?

By Jason Denver
Sep 22, 2012

The climbs on top of Copplecrown are not described anywhere. From my knowledge the anchors have been there for some time now and it is unclear who put them there and what has/hasn't been done. Some of the "chinos" crew has been out there and done some climbs. There is little to no history on the place and if you climb something it would be helpfull to the community to make a note of it on this site. Thanks

By joshua corbett
From: Wolfeboro NH
Sep 22, 2012

I have been there and I didn't think it was worth climbing so I have never been back. All the other cliffs are so much better.

By dmcclosk51
Jun 3, 2013

Joshua Corbett, you mentioned a "small guide book for the locals". I'm heading into the area this weekend and was wondering if you would be able to send me a copy of this guide. Thanks!

By chinos
Jun 23, 2013

Guidebooks are for sale at IME in north conway, indoor ascents in dover, and chessler books online!

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 20, 2013

Anyone up for writing a quick overview for the area? Put it in as a comment here and Jay, Lee or I can move it into the body and assign it to you.

By chinos
Aug 20, 2013

i will try to get something together for it mark

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 20, 2013

Super. Thanks.