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New DMM belay devices
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Aug 19, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Rock wars, Red River Gorge
Jawon wrote:
Any predictions how the Matik would perform on roped solo leads, compared to the GriGri versions or Edelrid Eddy? Seems like it could overcome the shortcomings of the existing devices. And the Grip looks like a fall causes the device to pinch the rope against the biner. Interesting, but probably too sketchy for roped solo leads?


Can't say anything about the matik, but it seems clear that the grip can not be used for any soloing purpose. It is more of a soft braking assistance, which requires a hand on the rope both to initiate and maintain braking.
shoo
Joined Aug 9, 2010
81 points
Aug 19, 2014
Splitter choss has the grip at $50 MSRP Jon Rhoderick
Joined Jul 21, 2009
784 points
Nov 9, 2014
So how do you lower a climber with the DMM Grip? Seems like the normal position your would keep your brake hand in for lowering someone with an ATC would just cause the to go into "assisted hold mode" or whatever you want to call it. wilcox510
Joined Aug 19, 2007
17 points
Nov 9, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
I have bought or tried every belay device made in the last 35 years known to man....like some,,sold off a few, and am finally saying I DON'T need to get or try one more. They all work pretty much the same,,even the brake assist ones still feed rope through, around a carabiner, and back up to a braking hand. I'm done buying belay devices. I can always just wrap that rope around my phat' ass and do a mountaineers hip belay as a last resort. Woodchuck ATC
Joined Nov 29, 2007
3,196 points
Aug 10, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Me at Herring Creek Dome
I received an email from DMM advertising the Mantis . Nate Doyle
From NorCal
Joined Feb 25, 2016
40 points
Aug 10, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading Air
Cool. Love mah Pivot...finally found something worth replacing my ATC Guide with. Ted Pinson
From Chicago, IL
Joined Jul 11, 2014
154 points
Aug 10, 2016
I'm honestly not sure what purpose the Mantis serves. Can't guide-mode like the Pivot, and gives less friction than the Bug... Noah Yetter
From Lakewood, CO
Joined Jul 13, 2015
52 points
Aug 10, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading Air
Yeah, just looks like a regular tube style device to me. Ted Pinson
From Chicago, IL
Joined Jul 11, 2014
154 points
Aug 10, 2016
FYI: The Grip is no longer in work (and is never coming to market). I just talked to the DMM guys at a recent trade show and they said the project was scrapped. Apparently after extensive testing they couldn't get the magnets keep their strength for a duration they considered acceptable (years+). And the necessary bulk they'd have to add killed the weight range and aesthetics they were going for.

This device was super unique and 7+ years of effort went into it, so hopefully they'll be able to re-use some of the concepts in future gear designs.
AlpineAlison
Joined Jan 28, 2011
5 points


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