New Diversions 5.10a
| 1,838 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Sylvester, Wreford-Brown, & Coe - 1971 |
| Submitted By: | Josh Janes on Sep 21, 2006 |
| |
New Diversions - follow the right facing crack to ...
Add Photo  Printer View
Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
|
|
Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
|
|
Description New Diversions is a fun little climb with a unique crux.
P1: Begin at the obvious right-facing crack just left of a right-facing corner near where the trail hits the wall. Climb this wide crack up to near its terminus, then step up, clip a bolt, and climb up and right across the knob-studded face. The crux involves mantling onto a huge steering-wheel shaped knob. Belay just above, on a knob near the arete, at a pin with small cams/wires to back it up. 5.10a.
P2: Continue up the thin crack and knobs until it suddenly turns wide. Struggle up this to a belay at a nest of slings. 5.9.
Most parties do two raps from here (possible with a single 60m rope but be careful!), but it is possible to continue to the top on easier terrain before walking off.
Protection Single set of cams through a 4 inch piece. A shoulder-length sling.
| Comments on New Diversions |
|
By TinCrow
From: Ca
May 5, 2008
| Easily done in one pitch with a 70'. The rap also went well with a single 70'. |
By jpvandever
From: San Francisco, CA
May 5, 2008
rating: 5.10a
| Be sure to use long slings on the bolt at the top of the first section and on the piton above the knobby section to reduce rope drag. The large knob in the center of the face can be slung for protection (and is even larger than it looks from the ground!). |
By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Jun 11, 2009
rating: 5.10a
| There's a two bolt anchor at the top of this now, at what is described as the top of the second pitch. I led it and lowered off with a 60m rope, with just a little bit of slack left (so tie a knot in the end before you try this) Two 4ft slings are good for slinging knobs on the traverse. The mantle was pretty wild, but not the hardest part of the route, I think. |
By Jason Holliday
From: Blacksburg, VA
May 13, 2011
| This is one of my favorite routes ever. It's been a while, but I seem to remember straddling a watermelon, rotating sideways off of it to grab the next one, and then mantling it. It took me a while to get on top of it because it isn't that deep and the wall is quite steep at that point. Probably not the most elegant way to climb it but it sure was memorable. |
By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Oct 17, 2011
| Best to do in one pitch...can be done and rapped with a single 60m rope. |
By Ross Exler
From: New York
Jul 11, 2012
rating: 5.10a
| Do it as one pitch! Easy offwidth to fist crack to fun knob climbing with an airy mantle (and an awesome slung knob as your pro) to a finger crack to an offwidth that eventually becomes low angle friction and knobs. 60+ meters of climbing. It is really, really fun. |
By T.J. Esposito
From: San Diego, CA
Nov 28, 2012
| There's a 2b rap anchor above the wide section up top, instead of the slings/#4 anchor described elsewhere. |
By Peter Valchev
Apr 16, 2013
rating: 5.10a
| Just heads up about the changed anchor situation:
The bolts are actually below the "5.9 fist" on the topo and skip out on a lot of good climbing. I thought there must be another anchor 10 meters further and kept going, but there was nothing (or I missed it). The only place to belay was at a big manzanita tree at the very top... about 70 meters or so, a nice and varied pitch.
Rappelled from there (no slings though anywhere in sight) with an 80 meter rope and two raps. (Not sure a 70 is enough for the first rappel to the bolts, it's long). There is supposed to be a walk-off too. |
|
RSS Feed
2 more...
