This is a nice little cragging cliff that gets shade and is home to a few easier (5.9 - 5.10) climbs of one to three pitches in length. The namesake climb is the classic -- a crazy wide crack and knob climbing affair.
Drive out of the park on 140 and park at the pulloff near the old generator plant. Walk up the road two hundred feet or so and pick up an excellent trail that leads up to the cliff. Hiking time is about 10 minutes.
Browse More Classics in New Diversions
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for New Diversions:
New Deviations 5.9 Trad, 150 feet
Chicken Pie 5.9 Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet
New Diversions 5.10a Trad, 2 pitches
Burst of Brilliance 5.11b Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Featured Route For New Diversions
New Deviations 5.9 CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : New Diversions
The other other "New D". This climb is almost as good as New Diversions. Start the same, but upon clipping the first bolt, continue up instead of traversing right. The crux is a delicate step right to gain some large knobs and it's well protected by the second bolt. After that the route starts to wander up and left. Make two raps with one rope using the Highlander anchors above the roof....[more] Browse More Classics in CA