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19 - New Diversions

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Burst of Brilliance T 
Chicken Pie T 
Cock Tart S 
Jugs T 
New Deviations T 
New Diversions T 
Shake, Rattle, and Drop T 
Strangers In the Night T 
Tail End T 
Wasp T 

19 - New Diversions Rock Climbing 


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Location: 37.72264, -119.70258 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,895
Administrators: M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Sep 21, 2006
Forecast:
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71°
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86° | 68°
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84° | 68°
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83° | 67°
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Jeff Crow leads New Deviations (5.9).

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a nice little cragging cliff that gets shade and is home to a few easier (5.9 - 5.10) climbs of one to three pitches in length. The namesake climb is the classic -- a crazy wide crack and knob climbing affair.

Getting There 

Drive out of the park on 140 and park at the pulloff near the old generator plant. Walk up the road two hundred feet or so and pick up an excellent trail that leads up to the cliff. Hiking time is about 10 minutes.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.6 miles from here

10 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',3],['5.10',4],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in 19 - New Diversions

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for 19 - New Diversions:
New Deviations   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 150'   
Chicken Pie   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
New Diversions   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 115'   
Shake, Rattle, and Drop   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Cock Tart   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Sport, 1 pitch   
Burst of Brilliance   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in 19 - New Diversions

Featured Route For 19 - New Diversions
Rock Climbing Photo: New Diversions - follow the right facing crack to ...

New Diversions 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : 19 - New Diversions
New Diversions is a fun little climb with a unique crux. P1: Begin at the obvious right-facing crack just left of a right-facing corner near where the trail hits the wall. Climb this wide crack up to near its terminus, then step up, clip a bolt, and climb up and right across the knob-studded face. The crux involves mantling onto a huge steering-wheel shaped knob. Belay just above, on a knob near the arete, at a pin with small cams/wires to back it up. 5.10a.P2: Continue up the thin crack ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of 19 - New Diversions Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Chicken Pie (5.9)
Chicken Pie (5.9)

Comments on 19 - New Diversions Add Comment
Show which comments
By Osprey Overhang
From: ...
Jan 29, 2010
Just to make sure there is no confusion. This cliff is inside the park. I think what was meant to be written was that you drive out of the Valley on HWY 140 and into the Merced River Canyon AKA-down canyon. Park as for the Generator and Conductor Cracks.
By Greg Howland
Oct 1, 2012
Anybody know what the two bolted lines to the right of Chicken Pie are? Thanks in advance
By Bryan G
From: Yosemite
Mar 30, 2013
Anybody know what the two bolted lines to the right of Chicken Pie are? Thanks in advance

Immediately right of Chicken Pie is a new bolted route which starts by scrambling 20ft up Chicken Pie before clipping the first bolt and moving out onto the face. I think near the top this route traverses back to rejoin Chicken Pie. It is about 5.10c and very well protected. Don't know the name or FA'ist.

To the right of that is Catch A Wave (5.11d, FA: Scott Cosgrove, 1986) which has a thin and hard lower section with a traverse right before reaching bigger knobs. Bolts were replaced by the ASCA in 2006.

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