This is where it all began for the magical Valley grade of 5.11...Only makes sense why John Bachar made the first solo statement on this stellar line.
I usually do the route in 3 pitches (linking the traditional 2nd and 3rd pitches together).
P1. Behind the tree and up the crack! Blue Camalot size jamming over a cornery bulge is that crux. Belay on the obvious ledge below a big block (5.10-).
P2. Surmount the block and jam up a 5.7 corner and up toward the dark flared chimney (wet in early season). Place hand to fist size pieces in the crack in back using long slings and chimney upward passing some face holds. If you went right side in, then you'll have to do a tricky turn to the right and play off the double cracks as you squeeze up at the same time. The corner opens up above into a sort of alcove (where you could set a hanging belay out right)...At the top/left of the alcove and just right of the arete/prow is this flake type thing which you must jam a 5.10- move over using a not so secure hold. Once over that it's easy body flare to a big pod. Belay under the sweet looking clamshell corner crack.
P3. Its obvious what to do from here...Jam, stem and layaway the quickly narrowing crack which is good to the last drop. Increasingly thinning finger to tips locks in the slightly leaning corner make you strive for good body positioning to glide through the last move. (5.11-)
Rap off Gripper with 2 50M ropes.
East facing corner system.
Nuts, green Alien to C4#4 Camalot sizes, runners, 60M rope.
|By Nick Stayner|
From: Billings, MT
Oct 11, 2008
Am I the only one who thinks the crux of this thing is actually the thin hands near the beginning of the last pitch?
|By Fat Dad|
From: Los Angeles, CA
Nov 9, 2008
I'm with you. The bottom felt stout. I kept waiting for sting at the end, but the top felt really doable in comparison.
|By Joe Dawson|
Jun 13, 2009
The thin hands at the bottom of the last pitch felt rather hard to me until I did a combo of using the hand crack and some chimney action in the flaring corner.
|By andy patterson|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Dec 31, 2009
The thin hands part tuckered me out pretty good. I'm still picking scabs on my knuckles. My partner and I did this route on December 29th, 2009, after a snowstorm, and we encountered quite a bit of water on the route, especially in the wide sections.
|By Luke Stefurak|
From: Mountain View, CA
Feb 14, 2011
The trick with the last pitch is that you can get really good knee-bar/chimey rests through-out the thin hand section. My partner even found a no hands. Great pitch!
|By John Long|
Jul 20, 2011
Might be my favorite short crack climb. Must have done this climb 50 times at least, probably twenty times with Bachar, mainly as a training route - up and down the last pitch endlessly.
From: Oakland, CA
Jan 22, 2013
Great line that surpasses the hype.
Last pitch is a mean bastard - I tried jamming it straight on while scumming my left shoulder on the book and hunting for feet out right. This worked not at all for me and I dogged the pitch.
In some ways what you get on New Dimensions is the opposite of the type of climbing you find on, say, Serenity-Sons. While S-S features splitters with clean movement on open faces, New D for me was all about thuggy jamming with physical body positioning in corners, flares, and offset cracks. Lots of strenuous body work. Loved every move on the thing.
From: San Jose
Jan 24, 2013
I found very similar foot work and body position for last pitch of ND and crux pitch ofTwilight Zone, - no kidding..
|By Neil Rankin|
From: Greensboro, NC
Apr 1, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
The first pitch is 11a.
From: boulder, co
Jul 1, 2013
This climb gets afternoon shade, and was quite pleasant in early June even with hot Valley temps.
From: San Francisco
Oct 30, 2013
Can rap from the top with one 70m rope. This will take you to a bolted rap station to the right of the alcove. Then one more rap to the ground. Not sure if a 60m rope will be long enough.
|By Evan Riley|
From: San Francisco, CA
Feb 24, 2014
The best way to do this is in 2 pitches with a 70. P1 links the traditional first 3 pitches and P2 takes you to the top and through the crux. Hike to the top (4th) then down a gulley to the right (4th /5th) and rap off of a slung tree to the intermediate anchors.