New Dimensions 5.11a
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Mark Klemens, Jim Bridwell 5/70 FFA: Barry Bates, Steve Wunsch 1972 |
| Submitted By: | Alex Shainman on Jul 11, 2007 |
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Pitch 2, chimney
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2012 Closures MORE INFO >>>
Yearly raptor closures typically begin March 1 and remain in effect until August 1, or until further notice.
As of March 1, 2012: Lower Merced River Gorge. Closure includes all routes with the following exception: routes west of and including "Later" and northeast of and including "Juliette's Flake" remain open.
See the following website for more info:
www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingclosures.htm
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is where it all began for the magical Valley grade of 5.11...Only makes sense why John Bachar made the first solo statement on this stellar line.
I usually do the route in 3 pitches (linking the traditional 2nd and 3rd pitches together).
P1. Behind the tree and up the crack! Blue Camalot size jamming over a cornery bulge is that crux. Belay on the obvious ledge below a big block (5.10-).
P2. Surmount the block and jam up a 5.7 corner and up toward the dark flared chimney (wet in early season). Place hand to fist size pieces in the crack in back using long slings and chimney upward passing some face holds. If you went right side in, then you'll have to do a tricky turn to the right and play off the double cracks as you squeeze up at the same time. The corner opens up above into a sort of alcove (where you could set a hanging belay out right)...At the top/left of the alcove and just right of the arete/prow is this flake type thing which you must jam a 5.10- move over using a not so secure hold. Once over that it's easy body flare to a big pod. Belay under the sweet looking clamshell corner crack.
(5.10)
P3. Its obvious what to do from here...Jam, stem and layaway the quickly narrowing crack which is good to the last drop. Increasingly thinning finger to tips locks in the slightly leaning corner make you strive for good body positioning to glide through the last move. (5.11-)
Rap off Gripper with 2 50M ropes.
Location East facing corner system.
Protection Nuts, green Alien to C4#4 Camalot sizes, runners, 60M rope.
John Bachar soloing New Dimensions - Photo by Phil...
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| Comments on New Dimensions |
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By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Oct 11, 2008
| Am I the only one who thinks the crux of this thing is actually the thin hands near the beginning of the last pitch? |
By Fat Dad
From: Los Angeles, CA
Nov 9, 2008
| I'm with you. The bottom felt stout. I kept waiting for sting at the end, but the top felt really doable in comparison. |
By Joe Dawson
Jun 13, 2009
| The thin hands at the bottom of the last pitch felt rather hard to me until I did a combo of using the hand crack and some chimney action in the flaring corner. |
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Dec 31, 2009
| The thin hands part tuckered me out pretty good. I'm still picking scabs on my knuckles. My partner and I did this route on December 29th, 2009, after a snowstorm, and we encountered quite a bit of water on the route, especially in the wide sections.
Our mistake... |
By Luke Stefurak
From: Mountain View, CA
Feb 14, 2011
| The trick with the last pitch is that you can get really good knee-bar/chimey rests through-out the thin hand section. My partner even found a no hands. Great pitch! |
By John Long
Jul 20, 2011
| Might be my favorite short crack climb. Must have done this climb 50 times at least, probably twenty times with Bachar, mainly as a training route - up and down the last pitch endlessly. |
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Jan 22, 2013
| Great line that surpasses the hype.
Last pitch is a mean bastard - I tried jamming it straight on while scumming my left shoulder on the book and hunting for feet out right. This worked not at all for me and I dogged the pitch.
In some ways what you get on New Dimensions is the opposite of the type of climbing you find on, say, Serenity-Sons. While S-S features splitters with clean movement on open faces, New D for me was all about thuggy jamming with physical body positioning in corners, flares, and offset cracks. Lots of strenuous body work. Loved every move on the thing. |
By Alexey
From: San Jose
Jan 24, 2013
| I found very similar foot work and body position for last pitch of ND and crux pitch ofTwilight Zone, - no kidding.. |
By Neil Rankin
Apr 1, 2013
rating: 5.11a
| The first pitch is 11a. |
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