New Deal 5.14a
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Good page? (1 like)   |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.14a [details] |
| FA: | Scott Cosgrove 1988 second ascent Alan Moore, 2010 |
| Submitted By: | Adam Stackhouse on Mar 13, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: New Deal, 5.13d
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A portion of the wall is closed due to Indian rock art. MORE INFO >>>
The route Energy Crisis and the rock for 50' on either side of its are closed to climbing to protect Native American rock art in the vicinity.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Rarely does a route look entirely impossible, but typical of Cosgrove's routes, this one does. The climbing is very technical with miniscule slopers. The first 15 feet are 5.13a, then 5.12c for 2 bolts, then if that isn't enough, after the 7th bolt 60' up comes the 5.13+ crux. And just for some flavor, there is the Josh-typical 5.12a runout to the top. Better be strong for this super endurance route.
Location The middle of three bolted routes on the left face, a few hundred feet left of ZZZZZ.
Protection 9 bolts, anchors
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Apr 2, 2007
| Bolts are camouflaged so it can be hard to see from the desert floor. |
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jun 10, 2008
| The first 5 bolts were put in on lead, with the balance being installed from the top. |
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
May 25, 2010
| Looks like Alan Moore got the long awaited second ascent of this calling it 5.14a |
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jan 29, 2013
| First 14 put up by an american in america? |
By RTM
Jan 30, 2013
| Retro-bragging? If Scott felt it was .14 when he put it up, then why did he rate it .13d? I mean, Alan's opinion has value, but I wouldn't take it as gospel. Besides, Josh is modeled after oldschool standards, not modern sportclimbing! |
By Bob Gaines
Jan 30, 2013
| I belayed Scott when he sent that route, on a Superbowl Sunday. It was quite impressive. |
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