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Little Hunk - NE Face (Right)
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New Deal  

YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Scott Cosgrove 1988 (2nd ascent Alan Moore, 2010)
Page Views: 1,436
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on Mar 13, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: New Deal, 5.14a
A portion of the wall is closed due to Indian rock art. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Rarely does a route look entirely impossible, but typical of Cosgrove's routes, this one does. The climbing is very technical with miniscule slopers. The first 15 feet are 5.13a, then 5.12c for 2 bolts, then if that isn't enough, after the 7th bolt 60' up comes the 5.13+ crux. And just for some flavor, there is the Josh-typical 5.12a runout to the top. Better be strong for this super endurance route.


Location 

The middle of three bolted routes on the left face, a few hundred feet left of ZZZZZ.


Protection 

9 bolts, anchors



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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Apr 2, 2007

Bolts are camouflaged so it can be hard to see from the desert floor.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jun 10, 2008

The first 5 bolts were put in on lead, with the balance being installed from the top.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
May 25, 2010

Looks like Alan Moore got the long awaited second ascent of this calling it 5.14a

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jan 29, 2013

First 14 put up by an american in america?

By RTM
Jan 30, 2013

Retro-bragging? If Scott felt it was .14 when he put it up, then why did he rate it .13d? I mean, Alan's opinion has value, but I wouldn't take it as gospel. Besides, Josh is modeled after oldschool standards, not modern sportclimbing!

By Bob Gaines
Jan 30, 2013

I belayed Scott when he sent that route, on a Superbowl Sunday. It was quite impressive.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jan 30, 2013

Rob, go climb it!

By Scott Cosgrove
Sep 2, 2013

I found the New Deal, after guiding ZZZZ and imagine a climb going up that wall, without looking closely. I inspected it closer and saw all the holds and tried to do it ground up. But the holds were too friable and I felt hooking and breaking them off would ruin the climb. So, I decide to rap bolt it and created a Shiite storm in doing so.

It took me somewhere like 18 days to do it, I think, I had never climb a 14a and the grade did not exist in California, but a 14a Euro-climber tried and failed on the line, shortly after my red-point. He latter traveled to Smith Rock and climbed, JB Tribot, To bolt, or not to be, very quickly. So, I would say that Allen's rating should stand, as at the time I really didn't know what 13d or 14a was, just that it was dam hard for me and I had to give it a number.

I was in school, guiding full time and training, I had no time or money to go on the road and repeat other 14a, but spent the time climbing routes close to home. I named the climb after FDR, plan to put America back to work in the Great Depression, but that metaphor was lost on the many rap bolt haters, who thought I was rubbing it in their face. I felt the small compromise in ethic would lead to higher numbers.

Bachar actually chopped the line and decline, the fist fight I offered, over the event. He later apologized, and gave me nine bolts back, and we remain friends despite our ethical differences. Something I have always tried to do.

People need to realize that climbing was evolving at that time and we all had different thoughts on how to proceed. I felt that always climbing ground up and not hang dogging was limiting my ultimate ability, and therefore took a walk on the dark side.

Anyway, the ratings were all over the place, as we didn't know how hard we were climbing, to suggest that we had any idea at all, when the grade didn't really exist seems a little absurd. I think now as with other climbs in the past, the ratings
always equal out, as I'm sure the 15b and c of today will be more common place in the years to come.

But people seem reluctant to change history when the facts come in, as every other 14a at that time, climb by an American has since been down rated, and others are still claiming they were the first to climb 14a, when their climbs are now rated 13d or c. Seems like not a big deal, now... but it was back then, and to those dedicated to pushing the boundaries of climbing, it is the only thing in their world that really matters.