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New Canyon

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Bulge Wall 
Damage Wall 
Flowing Cave Area 
Lil girly climb 
Lunch-Time Wall 
Mighty Wall 
Power Wall 
Radical Wall 
Roof Wall 

New Canyon  


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Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on May 30, 2007
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13 year old leading "Uncarved Block" 5.1...

Description 

New Canyon is a small little known limestone climbing area tucked away near the town of Manzano. Generally the climbs are vertical to slighty less than vertical and are short 40 to 50 feet high. Generally the routes climb incut crimps and pockets. Climbable year round, but sweltering hot during the summer and cold on anything but the warmest winter days.

There are about 35 bolted routes with another 20 trad or top-rope routes.

Beware of missing bolts and anchors, and loose rock. More climber traffic would help clean these routes up.

Walls from the entrance are:
Mighty Wall
Power Wall
Roof Wall
Damage Wall
Bulge Wall
Radical Wall
Flowing Cave Area
Lunch-Time Wall

Getting There 

Updated directions from Karl Kiser

The road to the crag is open. Turn west at the church in Manzano and stay right on this paved road. Be sure to stay right at the yellow house and continue on the maintained dirt road. The USFS sign is two plus miles beyond the yellow house. The cliffs are indeed 50 yards up and right of the sign.

If you can't find Manzano it is easy to Google directions to it.

Resources 

See "New Canyon Rock Climbing" Dennis Zallen 2004
This guide can be found at REI or Stone Age.

Also mentioned in the now out of print "Sport Climbing in New Mexico South" Matt Samet

Climbing Season



Weather station 22.0 miles from here

24 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',13],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',2],['5.8',4],['5.9',1],['5.10',8],['5.11',4],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For New Canyon
Linds climbing monkey time first ascent

Monkey Time 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13  NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : ... : Mighty Wall
Monkey time is a 4 bolt 2 bolt anchor. In between primal virtue ( to the left ) and monkey clip ( to the right)...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of New Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Juggernaut 5.10d
Juggernaut 5.10d
Cool area
Cool area
Girlfriend (5.10b) 3 bolts to 2 chains.
BETA PHOTO: Girlfriend (5.10b) 3 bolts to 2 chains.
Setting the route
Setting the route
A Lil 5.7+ we just put up!!
A Lil 5.7+ we just put up!!
Bad ass 3 bolt to 2 anchor cave climb
Bad ass 3 bolt to 2 anchor cave climb

Comments on New Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)
Apr 7, 2008
I put up a half dozen routes here in about 1990, with Matt Samet and others. Many hangers were subsequently stolen by a well-known ABQ climber.....totally sad. I even did an interview with him about why he took them.
By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Apr 8, 2008
And......? What did this person say during that interview?
By Chris Dietz
From: Clovis, NM
May 29, 2008
I would love to help fix it up, my Mother in-law lives just 25 mins away from New Canyon. I checked it out on 27 May and was glad to see the fire did not reach the crag. (It did come very close) . Not only do I think this a nice little crag to train my daughter but it would give me a reason to get out of the house, LOL. Anyone willing to help please let me know. I will need to know what size/type hangers to get. plus name of the P.O.S. would took them so I can charge him. Please do tell the name he should be "black balled". I can't believe a true climber would ever do such a thing.
Chris
By djkyote
Mar 25, 2009
most of the hangers were returned by the party in question while free-soloing - not using a rope makes a person a not a true climber? this situation happened many years ago.
By Karl Kiser
Oct 22, 2012
The road to the crag is open. Turn west at the church in Manzano and stay right on this paved road. Be sure to stay right at the yellow house and continue on the maintained dirt road. The USFS sign is two plus miles beyond the yellow house. The cliffs are indeed 50 yards up and right of the sign.

Most of the climbs are about 30 feet and have four protection bolts. The technical movement is good but the limestone is frequently sharp. The cliff offers an alternative to Socorro in the shoulder months.
By CowboyCerrone
From: Edgewood, NM
Apr 7, 2013
The directions in the comment area where 100% on! Had a great day climbing, lots or beginner climbs.. Lots of fun will return soon
By skelldify
Aug 20, 2014
Route quality is hit or miss here. Sometimes I wonder what the person who bolted this place was thinking. Oddly placed bolts, and routes that could have gone further abound. Watch out for routes without anchors - what a PITA!

Wall names/descriptions, route descriptions and locations are all screwed up. The only ones that make sense are the ones with photos.

Some great routes, some not so great.