| New Canyon |
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13 year old leading "Uncarved Block" 5.10a at New ...
Description New Canyon is a small little known limestone climbing area tucked away near the town of Manzano. Generally the climbs are vertical to slighty less than vertical and are short 40 to 50 feet high. Generally the routes climb incut crimps and pockets. Climbable year round, but sweltering hot during the summer and cold on anything but the warmest winter days.
There are about 35 bolted routes with another 20 trad or top-rope routes.
Beware of missing bolts and anchors, and loose rock. More climber traffic would help clean these routes up.
Walls from the entrance are:
Mighty Wall
Power Wall
Roof Wall
Damage Wall
Bulge Wall
Radical Wall
Flowing Cave Area
Lunch-Time Wall
Getting There From the town of Manzano turn west onto El Composanto RD B065, at the following for turn right onto road #245 and follow this to a large Cibola National Forest Sign. This is 2.4 miles from the turnoff from NM55. Park at the pulloff by the sign, and follow a climber trail for a short ways to the cliffs.
If you can't find Manzano it is easy to Google directions to it.
Resources See "New Canyon Rock Climbing" Dennis Zallen 2004
This guide can be found at REI or Stone Age.
Also mentioned in the now out of print "Sport Climbing in New Mexico South" Matt Samet
The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for New Canyon:
Featured Route For New Canyon
Juggernaut 5.10d
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BETA PHOTO: Girlfriend (5.10b) 3 bolts to 2 chains.
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A Lil 5.7+ we just put up!!
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Setting the route
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Cool area
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Bad ass 3 bolt to 2 anchor cave climb
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By Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)
Apr 7, 2008
| I put up a half dozen routes here in about 1990, with Matt Samet and others. Many hangers were subsequently stolen by a well-known ABQ climber.....totally sad. I even did an interview with him about why he took them. |
By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Apr 8, 2008
| And......? What did this person say during that interview? |
By Chris Dietz
From: Clovis, NM
May 29, 2008
| I would love to help fix it up, my Mother in-law lives just 25 mins away from New Canyon. I checked it out on 27 May and was glad to see the fire did not reach the crag. (It did come very close) . Not only do I think this a nice little crag to train my daughter but it would give me a reason to get out of the house, LOL. Anyone willing to help please let me know. I will need to know what size/type hangers to get. plus name of the P.O.S. would took them so I can charge him. Please do tell the name he should be "black balled". I can't believe a true climber would ever do such a thing.
Chris |
By djkyote
Mar 25, 2009
| most of the hangers were returned by the party in question while free-soloing - not using a rope makes a person a not a true climber? this situation happened many years ago. |
By Karl Kiser
Oct 22, 2012
| The road to the crag is open. Turn west at the church in Manzano and stay right on this paved road. Be sure to stay right at the yellow house and continue on the maintained dirt road. The USFS sign is two plus miles beyond the yellow house. The cliffs are indeed 50 yards up and right of the sign.
Most of the climbs are about 30 feet and have four protection bolts. The technical movement is good but the limestone is frequently sharp. The cliff offers an alternative to Socorro in the shoulder months. |
By CowboyCerrone
From: Edgewood, NM
Apr 7, 2013
| The directions in the comment area where 100% on! Had a great day climbing, lots or beginner climbs.. Lots of fun will return soon |
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