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Start 20 feet left of the West Crack at the base of a vertical face. Use large holds to ascend steep rock up and right to the arete. Turn the arete out onto the face. Climb past a small roof straight up and continue straight through the somewhat dirty although secure face to the anchor.
This is left of Left Arete and West Crack routes. It passes through Left Arete at the small roof.
The rock is not great on the steep start, and there is minimal protection options except for around the small roof and up higher on the face. Levin gives it an R.
Higher up on New Cambria.
|By J Antin|
From: Denver, CO
Apr 25, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b R
Strangely, I really enjoyed this route. Fun, albeit thin climbing!
|By Bill Olszewski|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 21, 2012
Really fun, I'd give it more stars if it was safe to lead. Basically, one has to do all the moves at grade while unprotected, looking at a bad fall with the possibility of bouncing off the ledge and falling even farther. But definitely set up a TR for this one after leading West Crack!