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 ADVANCED
The Whale's Tail
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amputee Love T 
C'est What? S 
Clementine T 
Dihedral One T 
Dihedral Two T 
East Slabs T 
Finger Crack T 
Free Speech S 
Gumbo T 
Gut Feeling T 
Horangutan T 
Jack The Ripper T 
Jim Crack T 
Kid's Climb T 
Left Arete T 
M T,S 
Martindale T 
Monument, The S 
NED (Nothing Except Dynamics) T 
New Cambria T,TR 
No Problem T 
Northeast Arete T 
Second Coming S,TR 
Spoof T 
Spoof Roof T 
West Crack T,TR 
West Dihedral T,TR 
West Face [Whale's Tail] T,TR 
Yorkshire Ripper, The T 

New Cambria 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Lynn Smith, Mike Brooks, Dennis Smith, 1982
Page Views: 427
Submitted By: Joe Brannan on Aug 29, 2010

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Cory starts up New Cambria.
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start 20 feet left of the West Crack at the base of a vertical face. Use large holds to ascend steep rock up and right to the arete. Turn the arete out onto the face. Climb past a small roof straight up and continue straight through the somewhat dirty although secure face to the anchor.


Location 

This is left of Left Arete and West Crack routes. It passes through Left Arete at the small roof.


Protection 

The rock is not great on the steep start, and there is minimal protection options except for around the small roof and up higher on the face. Levin gives it an R.



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By J Antin
From: Denver, CO
Apr 25, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R

Strangely, I really enjoyed this route. Fun, albeit thin climbing!

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 21, 2012

Really fun, I'd give it more stars if it was safe to lead. Basically, one has to do all the moves at grade while unprotected, looking at a bad fall with the possibility of bouncing off the ledge and falling even farther. But definitely set up a TR for this one after leading West Crack!