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 ADVANCED
The Whale's Tail
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amputee Love 
C'est What? 
Clementine 
Dihedral One 
Dihedral Two 
East Slabs 
Finger Crack 
Free Speech 
Gumbo 
Gut Feeling 
Horangutan 
Jack The Ripper 
Kid's Climb 
Left Arete 
M 
Martindale 
Monument, The 
NED (Nothing Except Dynamics) 
New Cambria 
No Problem 
Northeast Arete 
Second Coming 
Spoof 
Spoof Roof 
West Crack 
West Dihedral 
West Face [Whale's Tail] 
Yorkshire Ripper, The 

New Cambria 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Lynn Smith, Mike Brooks, Dennis Smith, 1982
Page Views: 399
Submitted By: Joe Brannan on Aug 29, 2010
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Cory starts up New Cambria.
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start 20 feet left of the West Crack at the base of a vertical face. Use large holds to ascend steep rock up and right to the arete. Turn the arete out onto the face. Climb past a small roof straight up and continue straight through the somewhat dirty although secure face to the anchor.


Location 

This is left of Left Arete and West Crack routes. It passes through Left Arete at the small roof.


Protection 

The rock is not great on the steep start, and there is minimal protection options except for around the small roof and up higher on the face. Levin gives it an R.



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By J Antin
From: Denver, CO
Apr 25, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b R

Strangely, I really enjoyed this route. Fun, albeit thin climbing!

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 21, 2012

Really fun, I'd give it more stars if it was safe to lead. Basically, one has to do all the moves at grade while unprotected, looking at a bad fall with the possibility of bouncing off the ledge and falling even farther. But definitely set up a TR for this one after leading West Crack!