Ice on 1/29/2012
This cliff is great for having many moderates close together, with a few short lines that pack a punch. A great season opener for the volume of climbing you can get in within a day. Although the cliff is a mere 60 feet tall, the rock quality is good and climbing fun. This area is mostly concealed by the tree line and can get buggy.
approach 40 mins moderate. From NY 149 turn left onto buttermilk falls road and drive 6.4 miles to a small dirt pullof with a trail that once entered has a sign in box for lower hogtown trailhead. Stay left at the fork 5 mins in, follow blue markers to beaver pond (25mins) hike until you hit a cairn at 30 mins and take the herd path off right to the marsh to which you will be able to see the cliff through the trees.40 mins
Weather station 10.4 miles from here
13 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in New Buck
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in New Buck
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for New Buck:
Featured Route For New Buck
Fawn Crack 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b NY
: ... : New Buck
Climb a small corner to a stance beneath an right rising finger crack. Make a couple strenous and painful moves to pull a small overhang and gain the crack (crux). Continue up the crack to friction climbing protected with bolts to fixed anchors....[more] Browse More Classics in NY
By Ryan and Jesse Morse-Brady
Feb 28, 2013
New buck is harder than you think to find. I always think in retrospect that it was not worth the walk but I have found myself here at least 3 times and already justifying the next visit as "well we have been there in forever". Climbing here is mostly slabby with a few cracks and harder variations, and just to reinforce its located just above a swamp a fairly big swamp, think bugs and wet feet early season.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Sep 9, 2013
There's a lot of climbing here and it can easily fill up a day. Check in the ADK Rock climbing guide and on the adirondackrock.com website for new routes. I went this past weekend and usually go in the Spring, going in the late summer is MUCH better in terms of bugs and mud. Unfortunately our group did get attacked by yellow jackets as we were approaching 100 yards from the cliff. The 5.6 routes are good for the grade.