As many of you know, I'm currently laid up. My injury has kept me out of the mountains for almost two months. But that doesn't keep me from keeping my ear to the ground...

...and the ground has some disturbing news.

Reports are coming in that there is a NEW BOLT on CAT IN THE HAT. Apparently the bolt is above the normal protection bolt on the slab pitch of Cat.

The rumor is that there is still dust on the rock. The bolt is brand spanking new.

Now I'm not one to get into bolt wars. But Cat in the Hat is a really old and classic climb. It bothers me a bit that people are adding bolts to such a route.

So the question of the hour is, who will join the bolt removal committee? I still have another month before I get to go back out and enjoy the desert. Perhaps somebody will take it upon themselves to deal with this blight before then.

Jason

Leaving the bolts on Olive Oil and Tunnel Vision for long periods then chopping sent a real mixed message. This one should be removed right away.

Sounds like whoever did it didn't even know enough to clean the dust - if you get a very light rain after the dust is sitting on the rock, it can permanently stain the rock (depending on rock type, etc - I've seen it on granite where lichen is probably killed by it). We spent half the time it took us to rebolt Black Velvet wall cleaning the white dust off the black holds.

I know exactly who did it, and my advice is to leave it alone. Alot of thought went into the placement, and the people involved will surprise you. For my part, I think it's a good thing that they decided to add a pro bolt at a place where I've seen at least one nasty fall by a person lulled into thinking it was "easy" fifth, within their range of ability.
Let the conversation continue a little bit and see how it develops before starting a senseless chopping episode. I am pretty certain the bolt will be replaced in any case.
Go climb and enjoy the day!

So is this bolt on the last pitch above the final spectacular black crack? I have only done the route once. I recall their being a bolt on that slab above the crack. Was another one added there?

Yup. Before you gain the short crack leading to the end/rap station.

I don't really think that it is okay to add a bolt, unless you have the first ascentionist's blessing. So if the FA party did not approve, it should go.

In case the reasons against such a bolt are not obvious, here are a few:

1. The route has been ascended countless times without the need for a bolt. This includes a huge number of novice parties.

2. The existing bolt (from the FA) provides an easy retreat point if you are not up to the climbing above.

3. The presence of an additional bolt substantially changes the character of the route and dilutes the experience. And keep in mind, this experience has been a significant "rite of passage" for many up-and-coming climbers over the last thirty years.

4. It is illegal. (I mean-- what WERE you thinking???)

fer cripes sake..it's 5.6! It's not THAT runout either...what a shame. Another classic sterilized under the shield of "safety". Sad times we're livin in...sad times indeed. CHOPPA-CHOPPA!

I've climbed the route and remember that last pitch being a little exciting. I would hate to think that subsequent climbers would miss out on the excitement that I experienced. I did not feel like the route was unsafe whatsoever.

IMO, if the FA party does not condone the bolt and if there is no committee that approved the placement of the bolt, it definitely needs to go!

--Marc

Andrew, would you please tell us exactly who did it?

If not, please email Larry, widely known as a pillar of the local climbing community, with that information.

Thank you.

I thought the mild run-out at the top of 'Cat in the Hat' really added to the experience. The bolt should get yanked. Not every route needs to super-safe, not every experience needs to be sanitized...

The bolt shouldn't have been added, for all the reasons people have pointed out, but I think it good to reemphesize one of them: IT'S ILLEGAL. More importantly, the CLC and other local groups are still working with the BLM to refine the bolting plan for the canyons in Red Rock, and this rogue bolting is an example of behavior that can limit the potential for new, legal lines.
In closing, don't retrobolt such a classic when it's perfectly safe. Makes no sense.

Because of the stance of the blm regarding bolting, I would never post names on this or any site. The bolters fall exactly within the accepted parameters sited above. Go ahead and chop it, though, if it makes you feel better.
I don't know Larry and therefore could not pass on those names to him, either. Once the cat is out of the bag, who knows what might happen?

One more thought. Larry is indeed a well known local. I'd be happy to talk with him by phone and bring him up to speed. While it might bring me more calls than I want, my number, Larry, is ###. (Hi climbers -- took my number out, as Larry called. You can find me in the phone book in Wilson, WY if you want, or drop me a note.)

I don't think it matters how often the bolt goes back in. The route has too much of a history. It will get removed every time.

Sucks that some dumbass wants to start a bolt war by messing with one of the most heavily traveled routes in Red Rock. With the BLM monitoring our activity and with the development of a wilderness climbing plan on the table, we really don't need that right now.

Jason