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Sunshine Wall
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New Beginnings 

New Beginnings 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Euan Cameron, Julie Wright, 31st August 2013
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 115
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Sep 10, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: Sunshine Wall Right-side Topo

Description 

Scramble up either the dirty slope form the right or direct below on cleaner rock, but arrive at the base of the short vertical face.

Clip the first bolt and make a good sequence of move directly up the face to clip the next couple of bolts.

Continue up the slab with interest until possible to trend leftwards near the top to reach the anchors.


Location 

Right side of wall


Protection 

6 bolts, double ring anchors.



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Sunshine Wall Selective Topo
BETA PHOTO: Sunshine Wall Selective Topo
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By will crick
From: Redlands
Sep 21, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

just one tip, make sure you are awake for the move past the first bolt.

By James Barnett
From: Bishop Ca.
Oct 1, 2013

Yes, the first move will wake you up

By Preston Rhea
From: Mammoth Lakes
Oct 2, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

I don't know if my beta was off, but this climb (at least at the very start) felt way harder than 5.6. I gave it 5.7+, but it could be softer or harder than that. It just felt awkward.