New Beginnings  5.12a

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Type:  Sport, 80 feet Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  Jeff Engel, 2010 Submitted By:  randy baum on Jul 10, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Open with restrictions: MORE INFO >>> Climbing is allowed on weekdays when the park is open; however, climbing is NOT allowed on Friday and Sunday after 12 noon. Climbing is not allowed at all on Saturday. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

The link between Water Music and Leftovers. A bit easier than Leftovers, as you avoid the crux. Fun climbing, especially the upper portion.

Location 

Far right side of the crag, right below the upper tier/bolt ladder.

Protection 

Draws. Take a few long ones for before and during the traverse, as well as for up high where there are some mini-roofs that cause rope drag.

Be careful at the start. Some loose blocks down there. THE REST OF THE ROUTE IS BULLET STONE. :)

Be careful when TRing the route. Be sure to either clip into the bolt at the base of the route or to be very mindful of your rope when belaying by the water. If the belayer weighs less than the climber, then belay at the base.

And, as always, use your draws on the anchor if you are TRings. This prolongs the life of the anchors.