New Beginnings
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.2 from 22 votes
Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | Jeff Engel, 2010 |
Page Views: | 1,879 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | randy baum on Jul 10, 2012 |
Admins: | Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel |
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Access Issue: Open with restrictions:
Details
Climbing is allowed on weekdays when the park is open. However, from 15 May to 15 Sept, climbing is NOT allowed on Friday and Sunday after 12 noon.
Climbing is not allowed at all on Saturday.
Climbing is not allowed at all on Saturday.
Description
The link between Water Music and Leftovers. A bit easier than Leftovers, as you avoid the crux. Fun climbing, especially the upper portion.
Protection
Draws. Take a few long ones for before and during the traverse, as well as for up high where there are some mini-roofs that cause rope drag.
Be careful at the start. Some loose blocks down there. THE REST OF THE ROUTE IS BULLET STONE. :)
Be careful when TRing the route. Be sure to either clip into the bolt at the base of the route or to be very mindful of your rope when belaying by the water. If the belayer weighs less than the climber, then belay at the base.
And, as always, use your draws on the anchor if you are TRings. This prolongs the life of the anchors.
Be careful at the start. Some loose blocks down there. THE REST OF THE ROUTE IS BULLET STONE. :)
Be careful when TRing the route. Be sure to either clip into the bolt at the base of the route or to be very mindful of your rope when belaying by the water. If the belayer weighs less than the climber, then belay at the base.
And, as always, use your draws on the anchor if you are TRings. This prolongs the life of the anchors.
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