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Willow River State Park
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Bolt Ladder to Upper Deck 
Brass Monkey 
Business Time 
Couch Time 
Cypher 2 
Daily Grind 
Doppler Effect 
Double Trouble 
Dry Lightning 
Fox Confessor 
Genesis Effect 
Guess and Check 
High Road to China 
Hurtful Pleasures 
Jar of Flies 
Living Slightly Larger 
Middle Cyclone 
Midsummer Daydreams 
Midsummer Selection 
Mono Mercy 
Mono Route 
Natural Daydreams 
Natural Selection 
New Beginnings 
No Crack for Old Men 
Play Time Is Over 
Pride and Prejudice 
Radioactive Man 
Rejection and Mercy 
Speedy Delivery 
Sudden Daydreams 
Sudden Shock 
Sunday Sermon 
Surf Selection 
Water Music 
White Noise 

New Beginnings 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jeff Engel, 2010
Page Views: 227
Submitted By: randy baum on Jul 10, 2012
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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The link between Water Music and Leftovers. A bit easier than Leftovers, as you avoid the crux. Fun climbing, especially the upper portion.


Far right side of the crag, right below the upper tier/bolt ladder.


Draws. Take a few long ones for before and during the traverse, as well as for up high where there are some mini-roofs that cause rope drag.

Be careful at the start. Some loose blocks down there. THE REST OF THE ROUTE IS BULLET STONE. :)

Be careful when TRing the route. Be sure to either clip into the bolt at the base of the route or to be very mindful of your rope when belaying by the water. If the belayer weighs less than the climber, then belay at the base.

And, as always, use your draws on the anchor if you are TRings. This prolongs the life of the anchors.

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