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The Dungeon
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New Beginnings  T 
Rat Dance T 
Ride Around the Block T 
Soaked in Sin T 
Tanuki T 
Uncertainty Principle , The T 
Zed's Dead T 

New Beginnings  

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: D. Montgomery & J. Young, 3/13
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 961
Submitted By: Monty on May 26, 2013

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Past the 3rd bolt and into the trad lands.

Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Boulder past 3 bolts, place good pro, clip a 4th bolt, and then plug gear up the featured, overhanging dihedral. When the crack dies, face climb left then climb straight up on jugs. Clip a final bolt, step left and finish. PUMPY!

Location 

This route is the lowest of the steep routes in the Dungeon. It is located just downhill of Soaked in Sin.

Protection 

5 bolts, nuts, doubles from blue Alien (green c3) - #0.75 . Singles of #1 and #2.


Photos of New Beginnings Slideshow Add Photo
Near the top of New Beginnings, this is where you ...
Near the top of New Beginnings, this is where you ...
In the steep corner.
In the steep corner.
Just past 2nd bolt on New Beginnings.
Just past 2nd bolt on New Beginnings.
The route.
BETA PHOTO: The route.
At the 2nd bolt of New Beginnings.
At the 2nd bolt of New Beginnings.

Comments on New Beginnings Add Comment
Show which comments
By Pinklebear
Jul 7, 2013

Kinda spicy to lead from the ground, especially getting to the last bolt with some hidden gear right before it. Possible Spoiler Alert, so don't read on if you're going for the super-pür onsight, but I think having some gear beta (or another bolt or two?) will make this a more manageable lead.

Good stopper above bolt three, kinda punchy above bolt four up to where, from the rounded jug up and left, I placed two Metolius #3 (orange) TCUs, bomber #2 Camalot in the base of the steep crack, #1 Camalot above it if you want, fixed nut (seems to be in place for lowering and cleaning) that you can back up with another medium nut at the top of the crack.

Hand-traverse left and make committing 5.11- moves up into the bulges, then bomber Metolius #0 and #1 TCUs in a small hidden horizontal by the initially freaky-looking (but solid) jug block, then up on good holds to the last bolt (pumpy).

Good stuff, but gear is inobvious coming from the ground. Bring your A Game!
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Aug 26, 2013

Thanks for the gear beta, Pinkly. I'll add my own onsight spoilers...

Good red Alien and yellow Alien where Matt got the #3 Metolius, and black and blue Alien where Matt got the #0 and #1 TCUs. A right kneebar pad would get you a no hands rest at a tricky spot. The lead seemed reasonable with this gear, but you don't want to blow it at at least two spots. Stuff was still coming off when I climbed it, but it should be cleaning up....

Fun climbing!