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 ADVANCED
The Red Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Begin Again 
Blonde Ambition 
Cornered Rats 
Crystal Cruise aka Crystal Corner 
Dressed to Drill 
Drill at Will 
Gastonian, The 
Imposed, The 
Little Secrets 
Man Chowder 
Metamorphosis 
New Beginning 
No Turning Back 
Outta The Chute 
Starting Blocks 

New Beginning 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA:  The Head Crew
Page Views: 637
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 20, 2001
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Description 

New Beginning starts immediately to the right of NTB. The route launches up in a right-leaning almost horizontal seam with 5.12 moves right off the deck. Head for the right end of the seam, and then zig back left for a complex series of finger crimps to very (!) long reaches. This comprises at least three or four back to back 5.12 moves. However, once you get stood up above the finger crimps, the climbing backs off to 5.11+. New Beginning ticks in a tad less difficult than NTB, but only by a hair.

This route is one of my personal favorites on the RED Wall, if only because I tried so hard to grab the FFA, only to watch it fall to the Great Defoliator himself. Great continuous climbing on excellent rock.


Protection 

QDs only. Like most of the routes on the upper tier of The Red Wall, this one is close to 90 feet long and needs about 15 QDs and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.



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