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The Red Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Begin Again S 
Blonde Ambition S 
Cornered Rats S 
Crystal Cruise aka Crystal Corner S 
Dressed to Drill S 
Drill at Will S 
Gastonian, The S 
Imposed, The S 
Little Secrets S 
Man Chowder S 
Metamorphosis S 
New Beginning S 
No Turning Back S 
Outta The Chute S 
Starting Blocks S 

New Beginning 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA:  The Head Crew
Page Views: 647
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 20, 2001

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Description 

New Beginning starts immediately to the right of NTB. The route launches up in a right-leaning almost horizontal seam with 5.12 moves right off the deck. Head for the right end of the seam, and then zig back left for a complex series of finger crimps to very (!) long reaches. This comprises at least three or four back to back 5.12 moves. However, once you get stood up above the finger crimps, the climbing backs off to 5.11+. New Beginning ticks in a tad less difficult than NTB, but only by a hair.

This route is one of my personal favorites on the RED Wall, if only because I tried so hard to grab the FFA, only to watch it fall to the Great Defoliator himself. Great continuous climbing on excellent rock.


Protection 

QDs only. Like most of the routes on the upper tier of The Red Wall, this one is close to 90 feet long and needs about 15 QDs and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.



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