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Raven Rock
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Nevermore T 

Nevermore 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Compton, Kifer 1971
Season: Any
Page Views: 1,376
Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Jul 25, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1 of Nevermore

Description 

Nevermore strikes a line up an iconic RRG landmark. For the aspiring 5.9/5.10 adventure trad leader this will test your mettle.

Standing on the steel bridge over Red River look west toward an imposing vertical face high above the valley. The top of Nevermore is the left arching crack that can be seen right of center.

Nevermore can be climbed in 2-4 pitches depending on your rope length or pitch length preferences.

Traditional pitch break up:

Pitch 1: Climb a left facing chimney to a ledge.

Pitch 2: Traverse horizontally left about 20 feet along an incut, but overhanging ledge to a tree at the base of a low angle crack. Follow the crack to a broad ledge and a bolted rap station. The big ledge was reportedly a popular place to camp back in the day. Alternately head left and up the face from the first belay to the second.

Pitch 3: Traverse out right from the bolted anchors on the big ledge to a vertical face with some bolts. Climb past the bolts to a semi-hanging belay at the start of the wide arching crack.

Pitch 4: Climb the wide, exposed crack to the summit.

Alternately you can combine the first two pitches together and the last two pitches together.

Location 

Hike up the old road and head left from the last switchback before you rise above the base of hte main face. Weave through the garbage and artifacts at the base until you can see the wide crack above and a left facing chimney to the right of a green slab.

Best way to get down after topping out is to walk down the road.

Protection 

Standard RRG rack. Bolted rap station on the ledge. Some bolts were missing hangers, but as of 10/2014, they're all there. You cannot get to the ground from the bolts with a single 60m rope. Also, rope drag is horrendous. You may lose your rope if you don't extend the anchor with slings or cord.


Photos of Nevermore Slideshow Add Photo
The angled exposed crack on pitch 5.
BETA PHOTO: The angled exposed crack on pitch 5.
Pitch 2 traverse on Nevermore, notice the jungle f...
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 2 traverse on Nevermore, notice the jungle f...
Approaching the bolted face on Nevermore on pitch ...
BETA PHOTO: Approaching the bolted face on Nevermore on pitch ...
Belay ledge after pitch 2.  It is an amazing view ...
BETA PHOTO: Belay ledge after pitch 2. It is an amazing view ...
View from the hanging belay on between pitch 4/5.
View from the hanging belay on between pitch 4/5.

Comments on Nevermore Add Comment
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By Kevin O'Connor
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 29, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CONDITION REPORT 
Climbed Thanksgiving of 2010 and the old hangerless bolts have been replaced on pitch 3. The route really is not PG13 anymore. Pitch 1 and 2 were quite dirty, yet the top two pitches by far make up for the low quality of the first two. A must do for any adventurous RRG trad climber.
By Nahom
Mar 21, 2011

does anyone that climbed this recently know if the dead tree hanging on pitch 2, the traverse know if that is still there or if it has fallen. also any beta on the top belays would help. I tried to climb this last fall but retreated after belaying from a thorn bush and traversing under a dead tree.