This is a cool route with some funky movement. Looking at it you would think it was much harder than it is. The opening chimney involves a variety of jamming and stemming techniques. The hand crack above is for the most part solid and well-protected, with some more tricky moves up high. While not terribly difficult, the route definitely makes you have to think outside the box.
On the way into the North End, in the same little grotto where Indian Head Direct starts, directly across from it.
Cams up to a #3 and nuts oughta do it. There is an anchor on top (slung tree?) that I seem to remember as being ok, but you'd probably want to back it up for TRing.
|By Ben Sachs|
Feb 3, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
|By Tim Fisher|
Jun 4, 2009
Tommy Howard told me Rich Gotlieb climbed this in the 70s The name is his. Before perigrines the ravens used to hang out in force on this end of the cliff, hence the Poe names.