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Nevermore (The other one) 
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Nevermore (The other one) 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tim Fisher, Jim Overby - 1985
Page Views: 579
Submitted By: Alexander Blum on Jul 12, 2010
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Nevermore. #2 hole above in the quartz.
2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb up the easy face, then traverse left, just below the roof. Use double length runners to alleviate rope drag. Pull around the roof and up into the hanging corner. Getting gear into the quartzy hole to your right is very strenuous, climbing over there first would make for a pretty big, but safe, fall. After you hit the hole it is a race to the top on fairly large holds with your forearms on fire; this rig is really, really steep.


Location 

Directly to the right of VD.


Protection 

light rack to #2 camalot



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By Scott Gilliam
From: Raleigh, NC
Jul 13, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c PG13

Alex, you mean traverse just under the first roof, yes? Or do you mean traverse left under the roof? ;)

In my experience, there's good gear under that first roof, over the roof, and in the hole. All gear above the hole is optional. And the less you place, the less you are pumped, but the bigger the ride if you do pump out.

Great route.

By Alexander Blum
From: Charlotte, NC
Jul 13, 2010

I don't love that number two in the hole . . . I don't know why

By Neil Rankin
From: Greensboro, NC
Apr 11, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Though the gear is quite specific, it is good.