Never Saw it Coming  5.12d

311 page views Good page?

Type:  Sport, 60 feet Consensus:  5.12d [details] FA:  Submitted By:  DisturbingThePeace on Feb 25, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. MORE INFO >>> The Lincoln National Forest Service continues its ban on bolting new routes (or, by permission only). However, climbing is currently allowed in all areas of Last Chance Canyon. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Start up on easy juggy ground off the ledge on the right side of the wall. Pull through a few sequency moves passing the second bolt, and hit the bouldery crux at the third bolt. Persevere and pull the dihedral roof up to easier ground and a nice rest. Rest well because just below the anchors the jugs disappear for a final difficult sequence to obtain the finishing jug.

I gave this three stars because the great rest in the upper half of the route really breaks this route down into two bouldery areas. But this is really just nit-picking as this could easily be a four star route elsewhere in NM.

Location 

Start below the dihedral break in the large roof on the right side of the wall. There seems to be a stray bolt just left of the start.

Between "Goodbye Double Wide" 13a and "Rolling Thunder" 13b. Second route left of the arete on the right side of the wall "Swept Away" Shown as route #11 on Monomaniac's topo.

Protection 

6 or 7 Bolts to Anchors