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Never repeated routes in AZ.
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By manuel rangel
From Tempe, Arizona
Dec 27, 2012

No way dude, Tamo gets visited quite a bit and your routes are repeated there often. Great Stuff Chris! I'd love to repeat Queens Bishop if you think it is worthy.


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By Ian F.
From Phx
Dec 29, 2012

www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=512759


Summit Peak, in the KOFA. Has to be the best prize waiting for a second.


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By CJD
From Chino Valley, AZ
Dec 31, 2012
My Hero

Manny,

Queens Bishop is a nice route and I have a standing offer of a six pack to the second ascent who can accurately describe the top rap anchor. If you do it in 2013 you will have the honor of doing the 30th anniversary ascent FA in 1983. Like many of the routes we did back then it is light on fixed pro. I hear the home made bolt hangers we used on Technicolor Corner are still there and people actually trust them! I think Mike Lawson made those out of a mailbox.

On QB we did four pitches up the diagonal line then rapped before reaching the top of the formation because it looked like it was going to be death aid as I remember. One belay was a single baby angle and a nut beaten into the crack. I left a fixed hex or something for the rap anchor at the top and I think the second rap was one bolt or baby angle drilled in the face but not on the route. I think we maybe placed 2 protection bolts on the second or third pitch where it traverses onto the face for a ways. It isn't really that hard, maybe 10a? Most is easier. The last pitch has a cool short chimney that is made by a thin flake and you end up liebacking the thinnest part. Some huecos with cams stuffed in them for pro.

I don't think the route made the latest guidebook but you can't miss the line if you look up Epitaph and look for the obvious right leaning line to the right of it. You can even see it from the highway below in Oak Creek Canyon.

I think Verde-go is worth the effort too. You can hike into it on the Towel Creek trail off the Fossil Creek Rd.

Glad to hear more people are enjoying Tamo. Hopefully that will encourage people to keep it accessible.


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By climnron
Jan 2, 2013

Josh Janes wrote:
Has Lost Horizon been repeated?


Lost Horizon was repeated by the kid from Utah. Can't remember his name right now, but he was living in Flag for a while.


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By Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 2, 2013
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of Twist of Fate, Oak Creek Canyon. <br /> <br />photo: Blake McCord

CJD wrote:
I don't think the route made the latest guidebook but you can't miss the line if you look up Epitaph and look for the obvious right leaning line to the right of it. You can even see it from the highway below in Oak Creek Canyon..

Are you talking about applewhite/middendorfs aidline? Left leaning crack. I posted it on mp. That thing could use some work. It would be more inspiring if it topped out.


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By CJD
From Chino Valley, AZ
Jan 4, 2013
My Hero

Darren, No that is on the overhanging wall to the right of Queens Bishop. QB leans right. The wall curves around to the left of the overhanging line and becomes more S facing. QB is on that section of wall.


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By manuel rangel
From Tempe, Arizona
Jan 4, 2013

CJD: "One belay was a single baby angle and a nut beaten into the crack" sounds like a real adventure. Maybe I'll wait til it sprouts a bolt on the anchor. Ballsy amigo.


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By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 6, 2013
It is a good sized roof. Photo: Jimbo

I don't think Leapin' Lizards on Anduriel Tower has been repeated. It is a boulder problem type of route that you kids could probably do pretty easily.


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By Alex Kirkpatrick
Feb 6, 2013

What about 'the cost of glory' on lemmon. Also, any word on if OTR is good?


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By dah3586
From Tucson, AZ
Feb 6, 2013

No War (.13b/c, The Beach) was on the list, but you can remove it now, as Alex just sent it today.


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By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 6, 2013
It is a good sized roof. Photo: Jimbo

Nice going Alex!


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By MJW
From Boise, ID
Feb 7, 2013

I've wondered if anyone has repeated Ripple(11+) on Ripple Wall. Not sure if Argueso ever went back to do it after I put it up. Would be a good candidate for a retro job and some anchors.


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By Alex Kirkpatrick
Feb 7, 2013

Eric, did the boulderite mention if OTR was any good?


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By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 7, 2013
It is a good sized roof. Photo: Jimbo

He didn't Alex. I have no idea if it is good or not. Go do it and post up.


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By Geir
From Tucson, AZ
Feb 7, 2013
Toofast

dah3586 wrote:
No War (.13b/c, The Beach) was on the list, but you can remove it now, as Alex just sent it today.


Nice Alex!


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By Paul Davidson
Feb 11, 2013

CJD wrote:
with Mike Lawson...


Chris, speaking of, do you know where Mike is these days ?
-


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By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 11, 2013
It is a good sized roof. Photo: Jimbo

Tallest Man On Earth 12. Pretty sure this has not been repeated. www.mountainproject.com/v/tallest-man-on-earth/106695090


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By Andrew Megas-Russell
From Tucson, AZ
Feb 11, 2013

What about "call me Ishmael" on the east face of the whale dome? looked at it... Seems bold.


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By Jimbo
Feb 12, 2013

The top two pitches are 5.11 and certainly have a PG rating.

How do you even know about this route?

As far as I know one has repeated this obscure route.


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By Andrew Megas-Russell
From Tucson, AZ
Feb 12, 2013

I've climbed with DDC a little bit lately and he recommended it to me. I got up there with a friend and after looking at those two pitches (looked pg at the least) i climbed blood brother instead. Would like to give it another chance though.


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By Joel Unema
From Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 12, 2013
me

Oak Creek Canyon> The Waterfall> Right Wall> The Accidental Tourist
Shameless plug, but the route needs a repeat


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By dah3586
From Tucson, AZ
Feb 21, 2013

Video of Alex Kirkpatrick, No War (5.13), The Beach, La Milagrosa Canyon:


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By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 1, 2013
JJ Schlick on first ropeless ascent of Cranium Crack .12 Watson Lake, Prescott, AZ.  1999

Sweet Dreams 5.12 R at the Waterfall has shut every suitor I know of down, and sent them slinking away, thankful to be alive... A true Dan Foster test of skills. Brittany Griffith declared 5.12- on TR, but those who have tried it on lead seem to think very differently. I think it checks in at solid .12. Did I mention the R section happens to coincide with the crux? The best quote I have is, "the gear was so bad I couldn't even bail off".


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By Eric D
From Gnarnia
Mar 1, 2013
Born again on the last move of the Red Dihedral, high Sierras.

Joel Unema wrote:
Oak Creek Canyon> The Waterfall> Right Wall> The Accidental Tourist Shameless plug, but the route needs a repeat


This just got repeated by 3 different people in the past two weeks.


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By Hendrixson
Administrator
From Tucson, AZ
Mar 1, 2013
Enjoying 'Ground Affects'.

I believe a number of the Louie Anderson routes at the Homestead have never been repeated. 'The Almighty' in particular comes to mind.


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