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Never repeated routes in AZ.
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By 1Eric Rhicard
Dec 19, 2012
It is a good sized roof. Photo: Jimbo
Anyone know of any?

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By Geir
From Tucson, AZ
Dec 19, 2012
Toofast
Lumpy Unmentionables, Keelhaul, Soul in Ice ... though I think you knew about the latter two. :)

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By Joel Unema
From Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 19, 2012
me
Lucky goes to the Creamery-- Sedona--Grossman ??

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By shotgunnelson
Dec 19, 2012
Never actually done but hamlins project up at the not so secret peaks always looked cool to me

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By Alex McIntyre
From Tucson, AZ
Dec 20, 2012
In the traverse section, double rainbow in the bac...
The Morgue on the Goosehead has never seen a repeat.

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By Clay Mansfield
Dec 20, 2012
I always assumed Coherent Excitation, 5.11X on Chimney Rock hadn't seen a repeat. But maybe it has?

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By Charles Vernon
From Tucson, AZ
Dec 20, 2012
I think about several hundred of Deschamps routes in Cochise are unrepeated.

Does anyone know if Harvest Moon on Babo's east face has seen a second ascent and/or a free attempt?

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By Colin Cox
Dec 20, 2012
Moving into Pabst Trap on the One Wall.
I put up a trad line(Snake Run 12a) around 2000 at Lower Solitude on Elden that hasn't been repeated, and Friend of the Devil(12b..2005) at the Red Dragon, also on Elden, hasn't been repeated. Not because they are very hard or scary, but because people got better things to do I guess.

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By Eric D
From Gnarnia
Dec 20, 2012
Born again on the last move of the Red Dihedral, h...
Agreed, hundred of Dave's routes in Cochise. I would imagine that some of the aid lines on the east face of Babo haven't been repeated. Also, hundreds of the backcountry routes on S. Arizona domes and Sedona.

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By Josh Janes
Dec 20, 2012
Has Lost Horizon been repeated?

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By Colin Cox
Dec 20, 2012
Moving into Pabst Trap on the One Wall.
I don't think so yet Josh. Bloom and partner were trying this year but haven't succeeded yet. On a separate, but related, topic you may be interested in, someone tried to onsight Shangri-La without the bolts. He fell, ripping several pieces from the crack, breaking the rock in the crack, and took a 60 footer. I guess now we know.

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By Unassigned User
Dec 20, 2012
A friend of mine claims he use to climb with Deschamps and has told me some WILD stories.

I guess i kinda believe him now after hearing about all his unrepeated routes.

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By Eric D
From Gnarnia
Dec 20, 2012
Born again on the last move of the Red Dihedral, h...
The vast majority of the unrepeated routes in Cochise aren't really due to scare-factor. It's more that they are climbed and not posted or publicized so nobody knows anything about them. Plus, the vast majority of people going to Cochise would rather do established classics than obscure stuff.

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By Charles Vernon
From Tucson, AZ
Dec 20, 2012
What about Over the Rainbow on Leviathan Dome?

A couple of years ago I started randomly picking obscure, possibly unrepeated routes in the 5.10 range from Kerry's backcountry guide and discovered that some of them are pretty dang good, even if they could use some cleaning. I'm sure there's a bunch more of those.

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By Josh Janes
Dec 20, 2012
Crazy Colin! Allow me to officially eat my words about whether there should be bolts there or not! I bet Mike Sokoloff would be interested in that little tidbit as well.

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By Paul Davidson
Dec 20, 2012
I think Over the Rainbow had a second.
Not sure about Coherent.

Pretty sure Lumpy and Lucky have not.
Those routes are not repeated for good reason.
Jim told me he didn't mean to do Lumpy that way.
He planned on drilling, he just couldn't stop and do it.

Many unrepeated routes are that way for obscurity's sake or in the case of Deschamps, because they are obscure and possibly desperate. Ditto for more than a few routes in Sedona.

Looking for some new challenges Eric ?

On Rap Rock:
The East Face, I forget what Steve called this, good start, climbing not that hard technically but it's a tricky gear lead on 10+ type of ground. I think there was an aid climb over there, this goes to the N of that I believe.

Bridge at Khazadoom - has this had a second ? I belayed SG on it and thought, yeah, I could lead that. Years later after doing P1 (& 2?) of Helm's Deep I tossed a TR rope down it with John Hayes and was blown away by how tricky the sketchy face climbing was above such lousy gear and that was before you even have to deal with turning the roof. 11+?

Baradur - Steiger bagged a 2nd, anyone else ? 11+ (I thought it was 5.12 on the second.) Steve figured out some bizarre, crappy sling over a slopping head, held in place by a sideways #3 hex of no value except to put friction on the sling so it might stay in place. This was after we'd yoyo'd to the crack's end and were proud to get there. See Steiger's write up here on MP.

We then went down the mountain and did the FA of Ankles Away on Chimney. That's another Steiger did a second of but any thirds? Now that's a doable climb with gear.

Also on Chimney, Perfect Peter. Anyone been on this?
It sounded desperate to me and quite hard.

Stronghold:
JS, Ray & Chip's routes in the Stronghold, the Three Sisters always sounded desperate... And apparently are, or so I've heard (right Geir?)

Chi Distha Tsay - Waugh repeated it but he went straight up the nose rather than SG's way. Waugh told me he completely ran it out.
Steve's lead had gear, just run out tricky gear. It now sounds like the rock has sport lines to the top. But those two original leads remain up there flappin in the wind.

Fig and Baker did ??? A traversing climb of the main summits that is full of OW and chimneys. I wonder if that's been repeated. Sort of a girdle route.

These climbs are way easier technically than the hard sport routes around. Different game.

Where is Soul in Ice?

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By Geir
From Tucson, AZ
Dec 20, 2012
Toofast
This thread is totally cool. I am getting all amped up just thinking of these routes.

Paul, I can't speak to all three sisters as I have just completed one of them so far. Freaking excellent climbing on Coming to Grips though. There was definitely desperate climbing though!

Soul on Ice is on Out of Towner's Dome. 5.12? slab crux courtesy of EFR.

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By Matt S
Dec 21, 2012
a most excellent afternoon
nik berry repeated lost horizons before he left town a couple years back. dave and i have a body length to send. bugger.

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By 1Eric Rhicard
Dec 21, 2012
It is a good sized roof. Photo: Jimbo
Cool stuff guys. Over the Rainbow has been repeated by a guy from boulder 20 years or more ago. Met him as I picked up a pair of shoes at Neptunes. When I mentioned I was from Tucson he asked me if I had done OTR. I said he and Waugh were the only ones I knew of that did it.

Sole on Ice.

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By 1Eric Rhicard
Dec 21, 2012
It is a good sized roof. Photo: Jimbo
The long reach you told me about has kept me off of Baradur Paul.

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By dancesatmoonrise
Dec 21, 2012
avatar
It's been a long time since I was there - tell me, what ever happened to Five Mile Wall?

Seems it was about a five mile hike down from the top of Mt. Lemmon toward Romero Canyon. Can't find it on this site. Hope I'm not opening up anyone's secret stash here. Mike Egan and I did a short, 5.10 thin-fingers crack there in 1979. Can't imagine it hasn't seen a second, but can't locate it on this site.

Seems I recall Karl Rickson was doing a lot of new stuff there about that time.

Only thing I found on a Google search is this photo:






Would guess it doesn't see much action given the approach, but I recall some strikingly clean lines.

Anyone?

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By toddgordon
From Joshua Tree, California
Dec 21, 2012
Arachnid Mesa, Canyon de Chelly.....9 pitches. No 2nd ascent FA Nov. 1983. .....29 years...

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By Stone Nude
Dec 21, 2012
When dumb people have disposable income, hilarity ...
Josh Janes wrote:
Allow me to officially eat my words about whether there should be bolts there or not!


I don't believe my lyin' eyes.

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By jbak
Dec 22, 2012
A steep climb too.
Five Mile Wall is in Kerry's guide. I doubt anyone goes there, but I bet every route has been repeated. I camped 2 seperate weekends in the early 80s and we did most all of them.

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By Jonas Salk
Dec 22, 2012
People go to 5 mile wall Jbak, it's a great place to be!

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By CJD
From Chino Valley, AZ
Dec 27, 2012
My Hero
I've done several first and last ascents around AZ. Mostly because of their obscure location and that we never reported them.

Verde-Go and Hollow Gospel on the Verde-Go tower. I did these with Jim Gaun and Bryan Smith in the 90's. They are accessed by floating the Verde River from Beasley Flat to Childs. On a tower found just off the river on the left in a spot shown on topo maps as Gospel Hollow. I think they are both 2 pitches and around 5.9 ish.

I don't think anybody has repeated some of the routes some of us put up in Sedona in the 80's Queens Bishop comes to mind. It's a long right leaning diagonal corner way left of Technicolor Corner and right of Epitaph.

I put up a some routes in the McDowells in the 80's that have probably never been seen again. The best was the N face of Tranquility Spire on Windy Walks (now Troon) with Mike Lawson and Gerald Guidroz. Death of Ethos we called it.

Many of the routes at Tamo have not been repeated just because nobody bothers to go there but they are great.

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