Never Never Land
|4,497 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10- [details]|
|FA: ||Art Gran, Dave Craft, Jim McCarthy, 1959. FFA: Jim McCarthy, George Hurley, 1964|
|Submitted By: ||Guy H. on Feb 21, 2006|
The only bolt is up and right 10ft...
This route is a highlight, at 5.10a, among the pure face-climbing routes at the Gunks. There are a couple fixed pieces of gear, but the majority of the gear is trad.
The Never Never Land access trail is about a 12-min. walk from the Uberfall, or an 8-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.
Start 30' left of Absurdland at the low point of the cliff, at a polished face with a bolt 25' up.
P1: Place a small piece in the horizontal, or have a spotter. Follow the seam with thin gear to the first fixed piece. Continue on thin face climbing, which is sometimes reachy. A piton is passed on the way to the headwall. The original route goes right, but the straight-up version is recommended and goes at about the same difficulty. An exciting lead for 5.10a!
Rap with one rope from 2 bolts on the ledge above.
Standard Rack, extra thin gear.
That's all I can say
Jeff Arliss on the lower section.
Nearing the top.
Never Never Land: Nice slab climbing.
Todd Swain making the long crux reach.
At the crux
Nearing the bolt.
Onsighting Never Never Land.
|Comments on Never Never Land
Sep 27, 2006
awesome climb. seems improbable that feet will work in the crux section, but they will. crux well protected and the upper section backs off to 5.8 or so.
|By Cory B|
Oct 12, 2008
awesome route! Two bolts, a piton, light thoughts and trust in your feet get you through this route.
I actually thought coronary was easier though...is 10a correct?
|By David Stowe|
Oct 12, 2008
I think that you mean two pitons and one bolt. There has never been more than one bolt. It is not harder than 10a. If you tried going straight up from the bolt to the piton at the crux section then you will have found it harder. If you angled slightly left after the bolt then you will find it a bit easier as the holds are better. Fun climb, especially if you do the direct finish and don't move right up the easy groove.
|By vanishing spy|
Apr 19, 2010
Get on this one before the feet get anymore glassy.
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Jan 9, 2012
This was my first 5.10 onsight and my 100th route in the Gunks, one of my all-time favorite climbs at this this crag. I've climbed this at least 20 times since, and I've never fallen - and never felt secure on the move above the bolt to the horizontal. Look out for the last move too, it feels 5.9 and protection is below your feet until you clip the final piton.
|By Nick Weinberg|
From: Albany, NY
Apr 26, 2013
One of my favorite routes at the gunks. Crux did feel harder than 5.10a, but it's short, and I've never gone left instead which I've heard is easier. Opposed RP's on the first horizontal may keep you off the ground.....
Unfortunately the person I was climbing with left two of my quickdraws at the anchor yesterday if anyone finds em!!