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Never Named, No. 39  

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jason Haas & Dave Montgomery
Page Views: 376
Submitted By: rob bauer on Aug 31, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Never Named, #39.
Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is not my route, but I'm collecting the whole set. The 1st bolt is a ways up, but the climbing is 5.5. We placed a small cam between this and the next bolt. There was a bail loop off the 4th bolt. I got a smallish wire in between it and the 5th bolt. There is interesting climbing around up there. It seemed more like 5.9+ and perhaps PG-13 (Maybe it was the rain, but I thought I was on Crushing My Gear to Climb.). See Monty's comment.)

See what you think.


Location 

This is 30 feet uphill left of Chalk Dust Torture: left of a lone tree, in and just right of a black streak. The top of the climb is in a vague, left-facing corner through a roof, and top out through the obvious water streak.


Protection 

5 bolts and some small gear worked for us. The book said up to a #3 Camalot, but neither of us found a place for it. There are 2 anchor bolts with chains.



Comments on Never Named, No. 39 Add Comment
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By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Sep 1, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I think this is actually "Never named" FA by Jason Haas and myself, listed as #39 in the book. I could definitely see it feeling sandbagged at 5.7! We figured the route was 10-. Crushing My Gear to Climb is just right of this route and has no bolts or anchor.

By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
Sep 3, 2013

Thanks! I updated my description.

By Kevin Gillest
From: Arvada, CO
Aug 4, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Supplement gear for us was Metolius #1, #2, and small nut up high. The bail webbing on the 4th bolt was dangerous, we cut it off. Not only was there burn marks from somebody lowering, but the knots were only a series of overhands. Wet, partially run-out, but exciting.