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Never Intended 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Thomas Compare, 1977
Page Views: 1,514
Submitted By: mschlocker on Jan 15, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>


Quite sustained and steep sport climbing leads to easy slab climbing. Bring some finger strength along for this one.


Directly above Crack of Dust. Effectively a second pitch for any climb ending on the ledge above Crack of Dust.

Walk off left and then follow the 3rd class descent for the climbs at the far left of the climbing area.


Bolts. Bolt anchor (no rap rings).

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By T.J. Esposito
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 12, 2011

I tried to flash it and I would definitely say it's one of the hardest 10b's I've attempted at the gorge, at least the sequence my partner and I were trying (BETA- at the second bolt, working right and hanging off the flat mantle, over the orange bulge, before high stepping and rocking on the left foot).

Very well protected though with little to hit, a leader should feel very comfortable falling on this. And it has a decent amount of the grippy orange rock too.
By ron amick
From: poway, ca
Jan 3, 2012

FA Art Messier? I dont think so, this route was put up in 1977
By wesnice
Aug 14, 2013

I found rap rings at the top and the rope made it to the base of Crack of Dust....tried both the mantle move to the right of the second bolt and climbing the shallow corner left of the second bolt and they were both interesting. Fun climb...
By off white
Feb 27, 2014

Ron's spot on, this was put up by Thomas Compare way back there, Art just put bolts in on the old top rope, much the same as he did on One Step Beyond, which he renamed "Escapade".
By Elush
From: CA
Mar 19, 2014

Be Careful attempting to rap from here to the bottom of Crack of Dust. High Potential for rope to become stuck...
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