Never Ending Story  5.10b

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, Grade III Consensus:  5.10 [details] FA:  KC Baum Submitted By:  Bryson Slothower on Nov 15, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Hike past the Sunday and Fortress Walls and continue to the Hidden Valley Wall. Walk past a deep alcove near the center of the Wall and continue on for about 80 feet. Start in a right-facing dihedral where a white pegmatite dike meets the ground.

Pitch 1: Jam up a slightly bushy corner with good hands and stems to where it starts to flatten out. Continue up into a wide chimney and belay on a flat chockstone with slings, 5.8, 80 feet.

Pitch 2: Classic. Continue up the chimney for a short distance then pass a bulge to gain the nice hand crack above. Follow this crack straight up for about another 50 feet before reaching the crux bulge. Plug in good gear and pull through the bulge as the crack narrows and belay above on a good ledge. 5.10b, 150 feet.

Pitch 3: Continue straight up following the crack past a roof using hand and fist jams (two #3 Camalots useful). Pass the roof and continue via hand crack to easier ground and belay. 5.10, 75 feet.

Descent: Scramble up to flat ground atop the cliff and walk to the climbers left at the top of the route and contour along the rim. Downclimb 3rd class for 20 feet into the gully and locate 2 Metolius eye bolts. Rappel 180 feet to the ground or 165 feet to a ledge and down climb 15 feet of 3rd class.

Protection 

Standard rack with 2 #3 Camalots or equivalent.