Heading out to Red Rock over the last week of March. Would like some ideas on longer routes that would be in the sun.
(Interested in routes, both trad and sport, up through 5.11)
Thanks for any help,
Clint
Boulder CO
clintlocks@comcast.net

I am sure you will get a gazillion responses.

If you want to do the burly approach, there's Eagle Dance, Rainbow Buttress, and Levitation 29 on Eagle Wall. Since it's spring, the creek should be running and you should be able to filter a lot of your water vs carrying it all in for the entire day.

Also in that same canyon (Oak Creek) is Black Orpheus; not quite as long of an approach.

It's also possible to climb in the shade in March if your constitution isn't too delicate, ha ha (I've done it several times). Black Velvet Canyon has many good routes; I've only climbed some located on the shady side.

Also, I don't know how much sun Nightcrawler would get in March (probably a lot more than in November), but it is a great, sustained route with a long approach that deters the crowds. If its four pitches aren't enough for you, I've read that you can climb MysterZ first to get up to Brownstone Wall and then commence with Nightcrawler.

actually, you may want to plan for shady or at least east facing climbs by the end of March- its gettin warm here! (mid 70s right now)

Eyes beta was good for the sunny stuff, and yes, you can totally link Myster Z (good solo or simul climb) to Nightcrawler (or any of the routes on the Brownstone wall- all of 'em are awesome).

For something with a little less sun:

La Cierta Edad, 5.10
Risky Business, 5.10 (link this with Dark Shadows and maybe another route over there)
X-15, 5.11a
Drifting, 5.11c (i think)
Lone Star, 5.11a
Triassic Sands, 5.10 (link with Our Father, 5.10d)
Cloud Tower, 5.11d (some call the 4th pitch crux .12a)
Frigid Air Buttress, 5.9+
Seppuku, 5.11a (maybe do Hypertension, 5.10d as well while you're up there)
Sunset Slabs to Celtic Cracks, 5.10
Resolution Arete, 5.11d or 5.10 C1
Dogma, 5.11c (half sport/half trad)
Unimpeachable Groping, 5.10c


eh, that should do ya. any more questions or beta, let me know!

Just be aware of the RRR happening that weekend...The park and the surrounding area will be more packed than normal with the event, the clinics and the simple people climbing so be prepared to wait in line for just about everything LOL At least that was the way it was the last year I was there...

my list should keep you occupied without the crowds, with the exception of:

Triassic Sands
Frigid Air Buttress
Dogma (maybe- not too many people get on this due to the length)
Unimpeachable Groping.

everything else i listed is rarely done- although i have no idea why, all of them are good!

My experience in springs past is that the Rendezvous doesn't make much difference in how many people try grade IV routes. But March and April are peak season, regardless ....

We climbed Epinephrine on a Rendezvous sunday a couple of seasons ago, and there was one other party on the route that day. They were nice enough to take a short lunch break at the top of the Tower, and it all worked out. It was a great day.

I don't see what the big deal is with crowds on routes. You just unclip their rope and clip yours in. That way your partner doesn't even have to clean your draws. If they give you problems you can always pee on them once you pass although rappelling back through might be uncomfortable.

Careful Karsten...

(shhhhhh, you'll incite Killis ... ;)

Seeing as we're on the subject of crowds..My partners and I have a bachelor party planed for the weekend of the RRR, we are planing to climb the week before, will that week be almost as crowed as the week end? If so where should we head? Just looking to maximize climb time minimize waiting in line time. We're mostly looking for trad craging- to moderate 4-5 pitch routes. It doesn't really matter if it's a classic per say but climbing sandy choss doesn't tickle my fancy. Not to hijack the thread just piggybackin' Thanks

Right on! Thanks for everyone's route suggestions. We had a killer time. The highlights were Lotta Balls, Plastic People, Cut Loose, and Black Orpheus. Looking forward to the next trip out there. By the way--the crowds weren't bad at all. We only waited in line for one climb (Lotta Balls) and just checked out some big horn sheep while the other party cleared the first belay. Not a bad way to spend a morning.

Thanks, again, and let me know if anyone ever needs a place to stay in Boulder.