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Route Replacement

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By mike moore
From las vegas, nv
Nov 8, 2009
Me falling after dorking the crux of Pet Sh.op Boys

As of 11/7/2009 most of the anchors for the routes on the Wake Up Wall have been replaced. Native Son now has new anchors and two bolts were tightened. Good Morning and Pain Check no longer share anchors, they each have their own anchors. Finally, Rise and Whine and The Healer no longer share anchors, they have their own anchors.

The short 11a, Shape of Things, and the 12a, Where Egos Dare, have not had hardware replaced. I will do this soon.

ALL bolts on The Healer have been replaced.

All equipment is courtesy of the ARI.

Please post any sport routes that are in need of work.


FLAG
By John Wilder
Nov 8, 2009

thanks mike, as always, its appreciated.

Ultraman REALLY needs work. i'm hoping the ARI and maybe the CLC can get together on that one. Ultraman's anchors are so bad i'm terrified to TR on them and i've seen some mank out there.

The Gallery also needs work- now might be a good time. people may whine while you work on a route, but new bolts are always appreciated.

give me a shout if you need/want help- i've got time and am happy to help out.


FLAG
By J. Albers
From California
Nov 8, 2009
Bucky

Thanks a ton for the effort Mike.

How about the Trophy Wall? I think Pet Shop Boys, Twilight of a Champion, and The Trophy all have at least a bolt or more that are in desperate need of attention.

Thanks again and keep us posted.


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By mike moore
From las vegas, nv
Nov 9, 2009
Me falling after dorking the crux of Pet Sh.op Boys

I was going to hit the gallery in the spring, when the season dies down. As for the trophy, as soon as the ARI sends me more hardware, it is the next on my list. Hey John, send me a pm about hardware for Ultraman.


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By Greg Barnes
Nov 9, 2009
Hanging out with Karin on the summit of Warlock Needle. Photo by Josh Janes.

Hey Mike, the CLC may still have some ASCA hardware for Calico replacement. I gave them a number of camo Mussy hooks and a bunch of 1/2" bolts in 2008, and at that point Paul van Betten was planning on doing some replacement. But I haven't heard back on details as to whether it was ever used. All hangers were tan camo and stamped ASCA.

Let me know if you need more gear, but if the ARI is sending you stuff, we'll save it for other folks.

Speaking of Wake Up Wall, did that crux bolt on Just Shut Up and Climb ever get replaced? It used to move a lot (rock broken out around it), but we never got over there to replace it.

Thanks so much for upgrading anchors!!


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By mike moore
From las vegas, nv
Nov 10, 2009
Me falling after dorking the crux of Pet Sh.op Boys

Yes, it was replaced. A friend named Joel Jackson did it last year. Thanks for the offer Greg! If I do not hear back from ARI, I will give you a shout. If you ever need anything, let me know.


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By yevquest
From Southeast,US
Nov 10, 2009

Thanks for your help, Mike. I second the plea for Trophy work. Very scary bolts on some of those routes.


FLAG

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