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The Reno Boulders
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The Reno BouldersOld, Weathered, Volcanic ... these are the terms that come to mind when one thinks of the climbing options in the Reno area.
We've broken the area into Four zones spread out over a square mile or so, a good circuit can be had with enough problems to climb all day. The first area, the East Side, contains probably 15 or more boulders scattered across 2 ridges and canyons. Rock Quality varies with the best stone usually found on the ridge tops with more grit the lower into the canyons you go. It's on what we call the East Side Wall that one will find a number of quality, pre-established boulder problems. The previous developers have clearly worked hard on this area so please respect their efforts when considering a session here. We have opted to limit the inclusion of this area until we have an opportunity to work closer with the original ascensionists. Moving West we enter the Middle zone. this area holds a solid stash of newly ascended problems with good landings across a dozen or more solid, sharp, tan granite boulders with similar stone to what you would find at Buttermilk's. Walking southward along the middle zone hillside one can really get a taste for this areas potential, the zone has a semi-wild feeling but then houses are encroaching. Potential boulder problems dot the landscape here, but this is tough country and each potential FA requires the suitor to put his or her time in to make the climb at least semi user friendly. The third area is the West Side, this zone is comprised of three separate granite outcroppings that all sit on the same plateau. Here you will find a decent variety of problems with a little something for everyone from moderate slabs, to highball buckets, to V10 overhanging dimes. Some of the cliffs here are broken into tiers but still hold some great climbs. The Fourth area, the Primordial Soup Zone, is to the North of the boulders and is a different deal all together. The rock here is primarily sandstone and is breakable, but with a bit of technique one can ascend even the steepest lines. And this crag is steep! Super overhanging and well featured, a good pump can be had in a short time and the walk is less than 10 min. For anyone wanting to climb within the Reno Boulders area, there are a few things to be aware of. If you don't live in the area, it's possible you can be harassed by the security driving around. So be discreet, we live up here and if you would like to come out with a local resident please do not hesitate to contact us as we are out climbing here almost every day and would be stoked to climb with you. Hit me up here: djskulli@msn.com Most of all though, please respect the area so we don't lose the privilege. Carry out everything you bring in, no new permanent anchors of any kind, and please use good judgment when "cleaning" new lines. Be respectful and friendly if you do encounter the securitas, Watch for Rattle snakes, Bring a pad or two, clear a path while your out there ... and have fun : ) Getting ThereReno
Featured Route For The Reno Boulders
 While tiny in comparison to it's big brother by a similar name, Inverted Reality takes the first of two super clean leaning cracks that split a large boulder in the east side zone.Start sitting down with hands stacked in the crack, bring the feet up right to your hands using toe locks and lay-back up and left. Working the hands up, keep the feet high through several great moves until you reach a point where you can really lock off. Reach up lef...[more]
Photos of The Reno Boulders
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