This is the aid route (Deliverance on the Truckee A2, led by Aaron Silverman in 95) in the Falcon guide book, and a long standing top rope before that.
First crux is right at the second bolt, but is well protected. The main crux is at the bottom of the small seam. The crux is establishing your feet at the base of the seam.
Location
Just to the right of spring break. Start directly under the small tree on the ledge.
Protection
There are four bolts and chains at the top. Bring standard rack w/ small stuff as well.
Climbed Mr. Bigglesworth 5+ years ago. Onsight, no falls and no problem with the four bolts and additional gear placements. The climb was in the 5.11- range and was certainly a great addition to the already established climbs.
It's a pity that routes get retro bolted by climbers who don't have prior knowledge of the area and/or tradition. The challenge of working any additional gear only adds to the fun. This route resembles many of the Tahoe classics challenging the leader to place natural protection.
Adding additional bolts to existing routes changes the quality and adventure of the 1st ascent.
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