BETA PHOTO: Looking down from the base of the climbs to the pa...
Description
Iron Butte is an interesting mix of climbs. One can find any thing from vertical and horizontal cracks to face climbing to walls made of blocks. The routes are all short, most can be done in one pitch. After finishing a climb, a top rope can be set up to protect more difficult climbs. There is good mixture of trad and sport routes, so bring your rack, as well as quick draws. On most climbs that reach the top, it is sometimes best to belay just below the top, as lack of protection can be problem at the top. Some of the climbs end at two-bolt anchors and in some cases you can rap off. Besides the named climbs at the butte, there are many short climbs ranging from very easy to extremely difficult, making Iron Butte a great place for beginners and experts alike.
Spring and fall are great when it's cooler, however, it can get windy at the butte. Remember, this is Nevada and the weather can change dramatically in a short time.
The rock quality ranges from poor to excellent. Expect the named climbs to be good to excellent quality.
Supplies can should be purchased in either Carson City or Dayton. There is a new Smith’s grocery in Dayton, about ten miles from Iron Butte. Bring plenty of water in the warmer months, as once you hike up to the butte, you won’t want to hike back down till you’re done.
Getting There
Iron Butte is located about ten miles out of Dayton. To get there go east on Highway 50 from Carson City. The butte is located on the south side of the highway. You can't miss it, it is the long band of dark rock on the butte just as the valley ends. The turn off is at the last road just before the butte and is about seven miles past Dayton State Park. Follow this dirt road until you see another dirt road going up a short steep rise on the left. If you're in a truck or have four-wheel drive, you can take this turn. If you're in a car, it is recommended that you continue further down the road until you are about even with the end of the butte and take the turn to the left (see photo). The last short stretch of road is very rocky and not recommended for vehicles with a low ground clearance.
Approach
The hike up the butte to the climbs is steep and seems longer than it really is. Pack light and wear good hiking shoes or boots. High top boots are best as the dry grass in the summer has lots of stickers.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Iron Butte:
Suprised this place doesn't see more use. Have never seen anyone else here. It is the best bet in the region for getting a day of climbing in when it is cold and storming in the mountains. Have climbed here half a dozen times in the last 12 years when it was cold and raining everywhere else, and have always stayed warm and dry. Have climbed about 20, easy and moderate, routes here. A note of caution: We were there a couple of weeks ago and ran into rattlesnakes at two different spots on the approach and one at the top of the cliff, yikes!
Iron Butte breaks into two primary sections, Right and Left Side. The routes included on both sides break down as follows (The routes are listed in order from north to south):
Print a Mini-Guide - Includes Routes!
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