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Red Rocks Winter Routes

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By Will Eccleston
Nov 13, 2007

Planning on being in Red Rocks right at New Year's, and would love to get on some long routes, if not too cold. I've done Solar Slab, Black Orpheus, Cat in The Hat, and Olive Oil, but would not necessarily be opposed to doing these again, but I'd love to hear some recommendations for long routes with lots of sun, from 10a/b on down.
Thanks in advance!

By Will Eccleston
Nov 13, 2007

Would Crimson Chrysalis be freezing?

By Carrie B.
From Las Vegas, NV
Nov 13, 2007
summit photo - bourbon street

There are sooo(!) many sunny multi pitch routes! Get the new Jerry Handren guide book and you will start to get really excited! (Think Crimson C. could be a little bit c o l d!)...Birdland, Solar Flare, Johnny Vegas, Geronimo! Have fun!

By Will Eccleston
Nov 13, 2007

Should get the new guide by mail today or tomorrow. Can't wait. Looks killer! I guess it has sun exposure info, of course...

By vegastradguy
From Henderson, NV
Nov 13, 2007
Vegastradguy follows the crux pitch of Western Swing on Windy Peak.

jerry's book will be a great guide...

If you've done the classics, i'd recommend:

Birdland, 5.7+ - probably the best 5.7 in RR, take a 70m up this for a nice, casual rappel. otherwise, you need two 60m ropes.

Eagle Dance, 5.10c - its .10c, but its sport bolted where its hard. It also has a bolt ladder, but its NBD. I hear its a spectacular route.

Hot Fudge Thursday, 5.9 - one of my favorite routes in the park- beautiful, varied, sustained, and remote make this a worthy route.

Jubilant Song, 5.8 - the hallmark 100' traverse under a monster roof makes this route an amazing day out, and the rest of the route is pretty amazing too.

Sunflower, 5.9 - probably the best route on the Solar Slab wall, but also the boldest. Bolts have been added, but the runouts are still substantial at times, the crux climbing is decently protected, though. Slab-o-licious!

Sundog, 5.9 - some call 5.9 a bit of a sandbag, but its no more than .10a, its another classic route on the Solar Slab wall.

Sunspot Ridge, 5.8 - a spectacular outing, this route follows a beautiful ridgeline up just left of Solar Slab. It is the longest route on the formation- i think it clocks in around 15-16 pitches, depending on how you do it. The difficulties ease after the first few pitches, and the climb has a very alpine feel to it. It also offers the only views of both Black Orpheus and Solar Slab at the same time! (you can also start this route via Solar Flare, a pumpy 5.10 to its right)

A Song and A Prayer, 5.10a - this route is still awaiting a second ascent, I believe. I would love to hear some feedback on the route and find out if the rating is accurate. Its certainly no harder than .10a, but its a bit spicy at the grade. The route starts just right of Jubilant Song, but crosses over and climbs the massive headwall to its left, finishing up an amazing handcrack at the apex of the huge roof above!


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