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Red Rocks less busy routes
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By JacobD
From Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 30, 2011
Me on Half Dome Boulder, Middle Finger of Fury <br /> <br />Awesome problem!
I was wondering if anyone had any favorite "less popular" routes at Red Rocks. I'm looking for mulitpitch 5.5 to 5.11. Don't mind long approaches, some loose rock, or adventure. Looking for great scenery interesting climbing amazing summits, and preferably walk offs. Just don't want to stand in line. Thanks in advance!

FLAG
By Michael Kimm
From Las Vegas, NV
Mar 30, 2011
Gazing at the Gallery
Lesee...

Inti Wantana 5.10+, Aeolian Wall, Mt. Wilson. Long day, but no committment: can rap straight down the route from any pitch before linking into the top of Resolution Arete.

The Walker Spur 5.10b, Mescalito, Pine Creek. A steller three pitch John Long and Lynn Hill Route. Combine with Pine Nuts (5.10a, 2 pitches), Cookie Monster (5.7, 3 pitches), and/or Black Widow Hollow (a sandbag at 5.9, 3 pitches) for a good number of excellent pitches.

La Cierta Edad 5.10d, Refridgerator Wall, Ice Box Canyon. Five pitches, with 2, 3, and 4 being of utmost quality and variety. Combine with Breakaway (5.10d, 2 pitches) to get one more excellent 10+ pitch in a totally different style than the other route.

Community Pillar 5.8+, Magic Mountain, Pine Creek. 7 pitches to the top of the Magic Mountain. Varied and physical for the grade with a lot of off-sized cracks and a couple interesting situations. The area boasts the phenomenal single pitch Small Purchase (5.10a) if you need more post-climb.

MysterZ 5.7 into Black Dagger 5.7+, Jackrabbit Buttress and Brownstone Wall, Juniper Creek. 1600 feet or so of very good, varied and solid climbing. An excellent long day to get used to the rock. you also get the summit of Brownstone Wall, great views of the Rainbow Wall, and a lovely descent through Juniper Creek Canyon.

Lots of others, but there's a start. I'm sure others will weigh in.

FLAG
By Ryan Curry
Mar 30, 2011
Nightcrawler (5.10c) on the Brownstone Wall is super classic. I don't know how much traffic it gets, but considering the approach I bet you'd have it all to yourself.

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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Mar 30, 2011
lessee....

White Rock Springs:
Healy's Haunted House

Willow Springs:
Bighorn Buttress
Nadia's Nine

Icebox:
La Cierta Edad

Pine Creek:
Orange Clonus
Deep Space
Walker Spur
Black Widow Hollow
Adventure Punks
Challenger
Birthday Party

Juniper:
The Disciple (waiting for a 2nd ascent, i believe)
The Clod Tower

Oak Creek:
Sundog
Sunflower
Solar Flare to Sunspot Ridge
Rainbow Buttress
There and Back Again
Resolution Arete
Dogma

First Creek:
Black Magic
Lady Luck/Sunset Slab
Celtic Cracks

Black Velvet:
Texas Hold 'Em
Lone Star (link with Texas for ultimate day)
Fiddler on the Roof
Rock Warrior
Only the Good Die Young
Great Expectations

Windy Peak:
A Song and A Prayer
Western Swing
Hot Fudge Thursday

These are just routes i've done- there are loads more out there that are on my list that i'd like to do but havent gotten around to. All have their charm, and this is a non-weather dependent list. Be aware of the temps and plan accordingly.

FLAG
By JacobD
From Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 30, 2011
Me on Half Dome Boulder, Middle Finger of Fury <br /> <br />Awesome problem!
Thanks!!! I really appreciate the feedback and look forward to those routes.

FLAG
By Bryan G
From San Jose
Mar 30, 2011
Puffy jackets and Happy Boulders
If it's long approaches, adventure, and solitude you're looking for then pretty much any route on Mt Wilson fits the bill.

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By Josh Cameron
Mar 30, 2011
Castleton Summit Sunset
The best 5.5 I've ever climbed has to be "Geronimo" on JackRabbit Buttress.

It's less popular compared to other easy classics like "Cat in the Hat" and "Solar Slab," but still draws some crowds.

Gets sun until about late morning early afternoon, so if you like sun then definitely get an early start.

Seems like you get some great exposure for such an easy line. The 3rd and 4th pitches are simply stellar in my mind.

FLAG
By azclimbingrocks
Mar 30, 2011
Well....
These all were less popular routes....

FLAG
 
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From Los Alamos, NM
Mar 30, 2011
Climbing at the Belvedere crag near Nago with a great view of the northern end of Lake Garda and the town of Torbole sul Garda below. June 2013.
I doubt you need anymore added to John's list (it's clear he knows RR very well) but when you said:

JacobD wrote:
Don't mind long approaches, some loose rock, or adventure. Looking for great scenery interesting climbing amazing summits, and preferably walk offs. Just don't want to stand in line. Thanks in advance!


Armatron immediately came to mind as it has all of the above, minus the lines.

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By Jeff G.
From Fort Collins
Mar 30, 2011
Nearing the end of Thank God Ledge.
"Drifting" up on Jet Stream Wall is one of the best routes in all of Red Rocks. Probably won't be a line. Great position high above Pine Creek Canyon. Longish approach.

"Risky Business" next to Dark Shadows never seems to have a crowd and is another ultra classic.

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By Jeff G.
From Fort Collins
Mar 30, 2011
Nearing the end of Thank God Ledge.
P2 of Drifting

The Incredible second pitch of Drifting
The Incredible second pitch of Drifting

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By Dow Williams
From Saint George, UT
Mar 30, 2011
Dow Williams, 2011
I have climbed most of the multi pitch routes at RR in that range which includes a lot of lessor known ones, some good, some not so much. Here is first hand beta with asterisks next to my favorites. As was mentioned before, Mount Wilson, i.e. Resolution Arete, is hard to beat for a alpine rock route feel at RR. Good Luck and Enjoy the weather!

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By Luke Stefurak
From Mountain View, CA
Mar 30, 2011
Below "Inspect Her Gadget" at HP40 after sending it the previous day.
+1 for Sundog & Sunflower

Great routes if it's cold. A nice way to find solitude in the Solar Slab Area. We did them both after doing Johnny Vegas. Great way to rack up some pitches.

Only the Good Die young is pretty fun. Very short pitches but closely bolted.

I'll be on Dogma Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Should be epic!

- Luke

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By -sp
From East-Coast
Mar 30, 2011
Buenos Dias!
I bet you won't find a line for the N.E. Arete of Bridge Mountain.

mountainproject.com/v/nevada/r...

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By JacobD
From Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 30, 2011
Me on Half Dome Boulder, Middle Finger of Fury <br /> <br />Awesome problem!
You guys are awesome! Bridge Mountain is actually way high on my ticklist as well as Res Arete!

FLAG
By Karsten
From Sacramento, CA
Mar 30, 2011
FA's can be scary.  Photo by DeAngelo
Seppuku - Good rock, spectacular position, very remote with 3+ hour approach. No second ascent yet.

Minotaur - Just a long route that tops a cool feature in first creek. An adventure with mainly 5.9 and a few .10 sections. Amazing position. Also no second ascent.

Celtic Cracks - Cool roof, all natural anchors, cool features on the walk off. Although I'm a bit partial, have been told by others it might be a new classic.

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By Sherri Lewis
From Sequim, WA
Mar 31, 2011
Pausing to pose with the amazing cracks there.
Chuckawalla 21

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By smassey
From CO
Mar 31, 2011
No SA on Seppuku, Karsten? Damn, I gotta get after it. I went up there to do it a year ago, but took the wrong turn. Ended up doing Transfusion instead. Pretty entertaining, nonetheless. Gotta get wilder off his sportsclippin ass...

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By Ed Wright
Mar 31, 2011
Magic Ed
I would highly recommend the Ski Tracks at the far end of Oak Creek Canyon. The left hand "track" is called Underhanging Overhang 5.7 nine pitches, the right hand "track" is the Catwalk 5.6 nine pitches. What's cool about these routes is that after climbing 9 pitches there is a descent gully that gets you back to the base of the wall in just 15 minutes.

FLAG
By -sp
From East-Coast
Apr 1, 2011
Buenos Dias!
Ed Wright wrote:
I would highly recommend the Ski Tracks at the far end of Oak Creek Canyon. The left hand "track" is called Underhanging Overhang 5.7 nine pitches, the right hand "track" is the Catwalk 5.6 nine pitches. What's cool about these routes is that after climbing 9 pitches there is a descent gully that gets you back to the base of the wall in just 15 minutes.


I'm pretty sure these are in the Handren guide, they sounded like a fun option if Solar Slab was a CF. Do you know roughly how long the approach is after the Solar Slab area?

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By Andrew Carson
From Wilson, WY
Apr 1, 2011
Gallatin Canyon
Pretty long ways. It was about three hours from the old Oak Creek c.g. area, so from Solar Slab, probably another two hours? Roughly... but I'd second the recommendation. Good routes, definitely not a crowd problem up there.

FLAG
By -sp
From East-Coast
Apr 1, 2011
Buenos Dias!
Andrew Carson wrote:
Pretty long ways. It was about three hours from the old Oak Creek c.g. area, so from Solar Slab, probably another two hours? Roughly... but I'd second the recommendation. Good routes, definitely not a crowd problem up there.



Cool, thanks.

FLAG


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