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Red Rocks less busy routes

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Jacob Dolence · · Farmville, VA · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 806

I was wondering if anyone had any favorite "less popular" routes at Red Rocks. I'm looking for mulitpitch 5.5 to 5.11. Don't mind long approaches, some loose rock, or adventure. Looking for great scenery interesting climbing amazing summits, and preferably walk offs. Just don't want to stand in line. Thanks in advance!

Michael Kimm · · Free Soil, MI · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 2,585

Lesee...

Inti Wantana 5.10+, Aeolian Wall, Mt. Wilson. Long day, but no committment: can rap straight down the route from any pitch before linking into the top of Resolution Arete.

The Walker Spur 5.10b, Mescalito, Pine Creek. A steller three pitch John Long and Lynn Hill Route. Combine with Pine Nuts (5.10a, 2 pitches), Cookie Monster (5.7, 3 pitches), and/or Black Widow Hollow (a sandbag at 5.9, 3 pitches) for a good number of excellent pitches.

La Cierta Edad 5.10d, Refridgerator Wall, Ice Box Canyon. Five pitches, with 2, 3, and 4 being of utmost quality and variety. Combine with Breakaway (5.10d, 2 pitches) to get one more excellent 10+ pitch in a totally different style than the other route.

Community Pillar 5.8+, Magic Mountain, Pine Creek. 7 pitches to the top of the Magic Mountain. Varied and physical for the grade with a lot of off-sized cracks and a couple interesting situations. The area boasts the phenomenal single pitch Small Purchase (5.10a) if you need more post-climb.

MysterZ 5.7 into Black Dagger 5.7+, Jackrabbit Buttress and Brownstone Wall, Juniper Creek. 1600 feet or so of very good, varied and solid climbing. An excellent long day to get used to the rock. you also get the summit of Brownstone Wall, great views of the Rainbow Wall, and a lovely descent through Juniper Creek Canyon.

Lots of others, but there's a start. I'm sure others will weigh in.

Ryan Curry · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 425

Nightcrawler (5.10c) on the Brownstone Wall is super classic. I don't know how much traffic it gets, but considering the approach I bet you'd have it all to yourself.

Jacob Dolence · · Farmville, VA · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 806

Thanks!!! I really appreciate the feedback and look forward to those routes.

Bryan G · · June Lake, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 6,187

If it's long approaches, adventure, and solitude you're looking for then pretty much any route on Mt Wilson fits the bill.

azclimbingrocks · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 0

Well....
These all were less popular routes....

Jason Halladay · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 15,560

I doubt you need anymore added to John's list (it's clear he knows RR very well) but when you said:

JacobD wrote:Don't mind long approaches, some loose rock, or adventure. Looking for great scenery interesting climbing amazing summits, and preferably walk offs. Just don't want to stand in line. Thanks in advance!
Armatron

immediately came to mind as it has all of the above, minus the lines.

Jeff G · · Colorado · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,123

"Drifting" up on Jet Stream Wall is one of the best routes in all of Red Rocks. Probably won't be a line. Great position high above Pine Creek Canyon. Longish approach.

"Risky Business" next to Dark Shadows never seems to have a crowd and is another ultra classic.

Jeff G · · Colorado · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,123

P2 of Drifting

Dow Williams · · St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 240

I have climbed most of the multi pitch routes at RR in that range which includes a lot of lessor known ones, some good, some not so much. Here is first hand beta with asterisks next to my favorites. As was mentioned before, Mount Wilson, i.e. Resolution Arete, is hard to beat for a alpine rock route feel at RR. Good Luck and Enjoy the weather!

Luke Stefurak · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 2,752

+1 for Sundog & Sunflower

Great routes if it's cold. A nice way to find solitude in the Solar Slab Area. We did them both after doing Johnny Vegas. Great way to rack up some pitches.

Only the Good Die young is pretty fun. Very short pitches but closely bolted.

I'll be on Dogma Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Should be epic!

- Luke

-sp · · East-Coast · Joined May 2007 · Points: 75

I bet you won't find a line for the N.E. Arete of Bridge Mountain.

mountainproject.com/v/nevad…

Jacob Dolence · · Farmville, VA · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 806

You guys are awesome! Bridge Mountain is actually way high on my ticklist as well as Res Arete!

Karsten Duncan · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 2,571

Seppuku - Good rock, spectacular position, very remote with 3+ hour approach. No second ascent yet.

Minotaur - Just a long route that tops a cool feature in first creek. An adventure with mainly 5.9 and a few .10 sections. Amazing position. Also no second ascent.

Celtic Cracks - Cool roof, all natural anchors, cool features on the walk off. Although I'm a bit partial, have been told by others it might be a new classic.

Sherri Lewis · · Sequim, WA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 316

Chuckawalla 21

smassey · · CO · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 200

No SA on Seppuku, Karsten? Damn, I gotta get after it. I went up there to do it a year ago, but took the wrong turn. Ended up doing Transfusion instead. Pretty entertaining, nonetheless. Gotta get wilder off his sportsclippin ass...

Ed Wright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2006 · Points: 285

I would highly recommend the Ski Tracks at the far end of Oak Creek Canyon. The left hand "track" is called Underhanging Overhang 5.7 nine pitches, the right hand "track" is the Catwalk 5.6 nine pitches. What's cool about these routes is that after climbing 9 pitches there is a descent gully that gets you back to the base of the wall in just 15 minutes.

-sp · · East-Coast · Joined May 2007 · Points: 75
Ed Wright wrote:I would highly recommend the Ski Tracks at the far end of Oak Creek Canyon. The left hand "track" is called Underhanging Overhang 5.7 nine pitches, the right hand "track" is the Catwalk 5.6 nine pitches. What's cool about these routes is that after climbing 9 pitches there is a descent gully that gets you back to the base of the wall in just 15 minutes.

I'm pretty sure these are in the Handren guide, they sounded like a fun option if Solar Slab was a CF. Do you know roughly how long the approach is after the Solar Slab area?

Andrew Carson · · Wilson, WY · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,520

Pretty long ways. It was about three hours from the old Oak Creek c.g. area, so from Solar Slab, probably another two hours? Roughly... but I'd second the recommendation. Good routes, definitely not a crowd problem up there.

-sp · · East-Coast · Joined May 2007 · Points: 75
Andrew Carson wrote:Pretty long ways. It was about three hours from the old Oak Creek c.g. area, so from Solar Slab, probably another two hours? Roughly... but I'd second the recommendation. Good routes, definitely not a crowd problem up there.

Cool, thanks.

Ashort · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 56

Found this thread through the FAQ and figured why not bump a 7 year old thread. 

I did Saddle Up (5.9) on Jackrabbit Buttress. Fun route and nice to not see any bolts or have it covered in chalk, had a nice feel to it. Can be done in 3 pitches which makes for a great approach to Brownstone. 

One day Myster Z was crowded so I did Rose hips (5.7+) also on Jackrabbit. This route was pretty good and had an adventurous old school feel to it. You'll be way above your gear in many spots, and that 5.6 runout traverse is scary. No recommended for 5.7 leader

Spliiting Hares (5.9) on Mescalito was pretty fun, short lieback crux. 

Next on my list of less busy routes to climb are community pillar, twixt cradle and stone, coltrane, and blood on the tracks. I'd also like beta on anything in the south fork of oak creek (up to 10b), looks like a fun place to explore. There's not much on here. 

In the vein on less busy or obscure single pitch, has anyone done the crack directly above the top out of The Fox? Looks like it starts with a cruxy finger crack followed by hand size to a fork where you can go straight or up left. Straight up seem in line with the grade of the lower portion, the left slanting crack looks burly at the top. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Nevada
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