Approach as for other climbs on Windy peak, except after you gaine the main terrace cut accoss the drainage low and cross to east side of the base of Windy peak. Look for the awesome arch the climb ascends the right side and goes through the center. There is an exposed 4th class pitch of 150' to the base of the climb - although in a second attempt I lead a direct line up to the base of the route and it went at 5.5. Pitch 1 (5.7) - ascend a nice crack to a roof, escape to the right and into an alcove to belay. Pitch 2 (5.9) - make tricky moves to gain the awesome arching dihedral to a two bolt hanging belay. Pitch 3 (5.8) - continue through the overhang at the notch and up the face.Pitch 4 - continue on easy terrain to gain the top of the formation. Desend to the east or rap off pitch 2 with 2 ropes. Slung a huge bolder at the top of the 4th class ramp and variation first pitch to gain the main ledge at the base of Windy Peak.
We replaced 2 bolts at the 3-bolt anchor on top of pitch 2 in March 2006. The 3rd original bolt is still there, and pretty beat-up (we'll get back and pull it sooner or later).
Do NOT rap from pitch 3 - that roof is fully knife-edged, and truly dangerous. Either rap from pitch 2 or continue to the top.
Awesome corner, a great end-of-the day finish if you cruise one of the other routes earlier.
Windy Peak
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