Diet Delight 

We replaced the original protection bolt on pitch 2 with a stainless 1/2" bolt in March 2006. While it looked OK, like all other older Urioste 3/8" bolts, the original was a junk-metal 3/8" bolt which could easily snap in a fall, and in addition had a thin SMC hanger that are known to break. The piton left of the bolt is off-route, and we couldn't pull it without damaging the rock, so it's still there (just don't bother clipping it).

FYI: On 10/24/07 I belayed at the base of the route in the midst of friendly bees that were swarming about the pretty yellow flowers whispering sweet nothings in, and out of my ears; so if you're allergic to Bee Stings, bring your EpiPen this time of year.

Original Urioste description seems more accurate than the new guidebook, IMHO. It's really only a 3 pitch route and seemed more like a 5.8 than 5.9. Did break out the last pitch into two to belay with a view down the last pitch rather than over the top and back in the scrub oak (not really any descent anchor options near enough to the edge at the top to allow for a view of the follower).

The second pitch crux protected by the new bolt (thanks Greg!) and old pin: my partner led through up left, rather than stepping out right so I can see why the pin is there (old SMC shallow angle, not a deep placement but I tapped on it a bit and it seemed sorta solid in that horizontal). Climbing up right then back left seemed easier above the bolt, though.

Fun route. Well protected crux areas and neat positions. All three pitches have memorable climbing.

The first pitch is spectacular. The second is really nice two. The third and fourth aren't worth doing (and can easily be linked). The descent is heinous, super-steep with sections of 5th class downclimbing. If I did this again I'd trail a second rope and rap down.

"The descent is heinous, super-steep with sections of 5th class downclimbing. If I did this again I'd trail a second rope and rap down."

You might have missed the descent, then. Probably need to go further to the West. Its a fairly casual walk down a gully with some steep scrambling, but, never scary and no 5th class.

I liked the top pitches. The crack system is pretty cool and topping out is neat. Different strokes I suppose.

There's a bolted rap stance out on the face to the right of the belay ledges at the top of the first pitch. We didn't see any further stations above but could easily have missed them (or it). Maybe it's there to make it easy to do the first pitch and bail. Who knows?
We enjoyed the route and if you go to the very top you'll get into the good descent gully as Brian describes. Nothing hairy about it, other than a small group of bighorns on this occasion.

First pitch had a bouldery start and a solid 5.9 move, the rest of the climb seemed soft for the grade. Last 2 pitches(linked) had some really fun athletic moves.

A fun route. The crux for me was the start.

Great route!! The first pitch had a 5.9ish move involving a jam with limited feet. There was a bolt to the right of the first belay station...Maybe a variation? Looked spicy!! We had four falcons flying around us all day!