Marion's Melody 

FA:  George Urioste and others New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9 [details] Length:  7 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III Views: 87 page views Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Jan 1, 2005 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

Immediately to the left of Jubilant Song, there are a few bolts on the varnished face. Two pitches up this face lead to a good ledge at the base of a left-facing dihedral. Climb the dihedral to a good stance at its top. The fourth pitch steps left, then climbs a corner past some protection bolts. (For many years this was the route's high-point, the result of a blizzard-induced epic retreat.) The fifth pitch goes up, then right, eventually following a small crack to to a hanging stance (on gear) beneath an overhanging headwall. Climb the short headwall (5.9), then follow easy climbing on the path of least resistance for a pitch or two to the top of the wall.

Protection 

Standard rack