Aikido Gun Boy 

I think a good rule of thumb for this site should be only post a route if you've actually climbed it. From the ground up. At least on dangerous routes. This way when someone reads about it on this site and decides that he or she would like to climb it, they have substantial and honest route information and don't get themselves hurt. Aikido Gun boy is more like solid 12a old school power face climbing. And that's if it even goes the same way it did when these hardmen put it up. Personally I think that quite a few key holds in between the first and second bolt have snapped. Also, for the rack, you don't want a bunch of extra gack to tote up this rig so leave yourself a #3 and #2 Camalot for the anchor cuz anything smaller won't be solid. A handfull of aliens up to yellow + #'s 4,5,6 HB Offset for the climbing. As for the PG-13, it's full on R. If you blow clipping the first bolt and your gear holds, you'll be lucky if you just break your ankles on the low angle terrain you pawed up to get there.

In my opinion, I like the old school 11+ rating. However, it is noticeably harder than Spring Break, in Icebox. Chad is right getting to the first of the high bolts on this route is heady, and I protected it with a 000 BD C3, which looks really good, but on sandstone, I wouldn't want to find out the hard way if it worked or not.

I'm not one to give much detailed info, but on this route the pieces pre-second bolt (there's a low bolt as well) are crucial to avoid proving your mortality in the event of a fall:

You can get an HB brassie in there with the 000, which, as Darren suggests with the bd tcu, you will also not want to test.