I am not sure why this route gets an "R" I found it to be quite well protected. One of the best single pitch routes that I have done in the Park.
By Ian Wolfe From: Boulder, CO Apr 7, 2006 rating: 5.10d
The route is definately not an R, I watched as someone placed a piece virtually every foot. You could have aided the route and felt solid about all the placements.
As for the actual climb, a great hand crack leads up to a right facing corner and continues on to a featured face. The climb is very sustained and very very pumpy! None of the moves stand out in my mind as particularly cruxy (as compared to the crux on Triassic Sands, for instance), or even very demanding technique-wise, but it is fairly strength intensive and there is a long distance between rests.
Overall, a challenging and very fun route!
By vegastradguy From: Henderson, NV Aug 26, 2006 rating: 5.10c
Really great line- one of the best .10's i've done at RR as far as single pitch stuff goes.
A couple of comments:
1) This thing is not run-out, not even close. Pay attention to your protection opportunities in a couple of spots, but other than that, it eats gear.
2) I'm on the fence about the grade. It's not as hard as some .10d's i've done, but I still don't consider myself a .10+ leader, so maybe this one caters to my strengths. That said, if you've got plenty of juice and are decent at .10, hop on it- it's well worth it.
anyone done the left leaning thin seam that is seen in the opening photo? beautiful moves and aesthetically pleasing variation! I'm not sure if it makes it harder or easier though.