The beautiful start of Kemosabe,on a hot summer af...
Description
Past the left end of Ragged Edges Cliff is a shady hollow featuring the climb Tonto. To the left of Tonto is a large white arching flake. Climb the arête of this flake leading to a thin right-leaning crack on the outside of this arch. Continue up to a bolt on the face as the crack peters out. Climb to the left of the bolt for the 5.9 escape or to the right for the 5.10a finish. Belay at some horizontal cracks and rappel from a tree at the top of Tonto with one 60 meter rope.
This was my first .10a lead and I have to say, I was really glad to see that brand new ASCA bolt up there upon my arrival. The route is tamer now with the good bolt, although the exposure and the slightly insecure moves to finish the route still make it exciting!
There is far less pro on this one compared to either Chicken Eruptus or Sheep Trail. I took the right finish (supposedly the harder one) and thought it was pretty easy. You don't need anything larger than a #1 camalot; but bring a few micro cams or even ball nuts if you have them.
A couple of pieces of small pro can be placed at the first ledge up from the start and up the first half of the right leaning seam. Edgy climb with thru-stepping halfway up before the bolt. I went left at the bolt as this seemed easier. Lots of smearing and careful foot placement is necessary.
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