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The Case Face
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Head Case 

5.8

   

FA: Todd Swain, Donette Swain, George Reid, and Catriona Reid, 1994
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 156 page views

Submitted By: Matt Faust on Nov 4, 2004


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Jared TR'ing Head Case


Description 

This route is located in the middle of the Case Face and climbs through the white lower half of the cliff up into dark varnish. Mostly good face climbing, protected by nuts and cams in the varnish where possible, bolts where not. The beginning is a little weird, with awkward moves to get to the first bolt. Since the protection looked pretty marginal from the ground, we toproped this climb by first climbing Space Case, then doing a second pitch up and right to get to the Head Case anchors. Once we got on the face, protection opportunities were more obvious.


Protection 

Several bolts and small to medium gear.



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Right at the crux on Head Case

Right at the crux on Head Case

Upper section of Head Case with some really fun climbing!

Upper section of Head Case with some really fun cl...


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By Tom Fralich
Nov 12, 2006

The route has four bolts, but is well protected by slinging a horn/plate between the 2nd and 3rd bolts and then a 0.3 Camalot or Green Alien in a horizontal above the last bolt.

By 46and2
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 24, 2007
rating: 5.8

Surprisingly good/fun route; crux is right after clipping the first bolt and is a little tough for 5.8 IMO; but overall its probably a good grade for this fun route.