Lean Lady 

Thanks Larry for the description and photos. Seems we were on route. The "Lean Lady" squeeze chimney in your photo is unmistakable. We ended up backing off it and going to the outside on the right without a problem.

The chimney was an incredibly tight squeeze. I was concerned if my partner who was on lead actually pushed through it might be a dead end. If so, it would have been damn difficult to get back down through it. It certainly must have been a very "Lean Lady" that did the FA on it.

I found the description for the 2nd pitch in the Brock guide confusing since it didn't mention any chimney at all and we found that virtually the entire pitch involved stemming up a 3 to 4 foot chimney.

My partner and I both thought it was a pretty good route with a good variety of climbing and some interesting moves. It was my first climb at Red Rock and felt it was a nice introduction to the area.

This climb can easily be done in 3 pitches with a 70 meter rope. Rather than end the second pitch in the alcove where the Lean Lady squeeze is located, climb the crack outside of the alcove (a few tricky moves, but the holds are there) to the big ledge above it. A 70 meter rope will then get you to the easy scrambling area at the top of the pitch.

If you're over 180 lbs, forget trying to do the squeeze. My partner is a fit 190 lbs, and I'm a fit 215, and neither of us could make it through the squeeze, even dragging our racks and small climbing packs behind us. The climb up the crack outside the alcove is probably more fun anyway, because it offers some awkward moves with airy exposure.

If you really want to have fun with this climb, continue scrambling and climbing easy 4th or 5th class areas straight up to the top of White Rock Peak. After signing the register, take the walk-off to the north (follow the cairns), but come back down the first major gully you find. The base of the route is 150 yards or less from the base of this gully. This loop offers much more fun than the normal route walk-off!

Make sure you bring a couple of #4 and #5 Camalots on this route if you want to protect it well. My partner and I had only one #4 and no #5 and ended up having to run things out quite a bit. There are a number of sections in the second and third pitches that will only take big gear. The climbing is relatively easy, so no sweat, but just to be safe...

Re: Approach to Lean Lady..........aka Death by Scruboak. I was beginning to wish I had packed my chainsaw.