Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Angel Food Wall
Show routes:
Select route...
Group Therapy 
Healy's Haunted House 
Lean Lady 
Purblind Pillar 
Sandy Hole 
Stilgar's Wild Ride 
Tunnel Vision 

Lean Lady 

5.6

   
1 person found this page useful

FA: Barbara Euser, Jineen Griffith, 1978
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.6 [details]
Length: 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II
Views: 561 page views

Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Nov 24, 2006


Add Photo  Add Comment 
You and this route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

BETA PHOTO: Lean Lady is on the rightmost portion of the Angel...


Description 

On the far right edge of the Angel Food Wall is a white slabby area. This route goes up a crack and chimney system on the far left of these slabs. Start in a dark chimney and move up and left past a dark overhang. The upper chimney/crack system continues for a few pitches. When it peters out, step left and make a few face moves to easy ground.

Descent: Scramble up and left to the top of the Angel Food Wall, the down the usual gully.


Location 

Approach via the standard Angel Food Wall trail then scramble right to far right portion of the wall.


Protection 

standard rack



Add Photo Photos of Lean Lady
The beginning chimney of Lean Lady.

The beginning chimney of Lean Lady.

A small overhang about halfway up Lean Lady.

A small overhang about halfway up Lean Lady.

Lean Lady: where the route got its name. A couple of pitches up, you squeeze through this tight and contorted slot. It can be bypassed on the outside without undue stress.

Lean Lady: where the route got its name. A couple...


Add Comment Comments on Lean Lady
Show which comments —
By losbill
Nov 24, 2006
rating: 5.6

Thanks Larry for the description and photos. Seems we were on route. The "Lean Lady" squeeze chimney in your photo is unmistakable. We ended up backing off it and going to the outside on the right without a problem.

The chimney was an incredibly tight squeeze. I was concerned if my partner who was on lead actually pushed through it might be a dead end. If so, it would have been damn difficult to get back down through it. It certainly must have been a very "Lean Lady" that did the FA on it.

I found the description for the 2nd pitch in the Brock guide confusing since it didn't mention any chimney at all and we found that virtually the entire pitch involved stemming up a 3 to 4 foot chimney.

My partner and I both thought it was a pretty good route with a good variety of climbing and some interesting moves. It was my first climb at Red Rock and felt it was a nice introduction to the area.