Stilgar's Wild Ride 

FA:  1974 Joe Herbst & Bob Healy Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.8 [details] Length:  6 pitches, 700 feet, Grade II Views: 475 page views Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Jan 1, 2005 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Looking down at the second belay position from nea...

Description 

Start up the first pitch of Tunnel Vision. Go up to the ledge below the first chimney. At this point, Tunnel Vision bears to the left, but Stilgar goes to the right, climbing a steep face and cracks past a belay/rap station about 40 feet up. Climb the deep chimney slot above, belaying when convenient. Continue up the chimney, which is not hard, but has limited protection opportunities. At the top of the chimney, where the crack narrows, exit to the left (which is easier than it looks) and belay. The next pitch goes up easy rock, then traverses left to belay in the alcove at the base of the tunnel on Tunnel Vision. Instead of spelunking, go up the right-facing dihedral system straight above, being careful to avoid rope drag. Continue up the crack system, with one or two thin spots, to the top of the wall.

Protection 

Ordinary rack

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