Looking down at the second belay position from nea...
Description
Start up the first pitch of Tunnel Vision. Go up to the ledge below the first chimney. At this point, Tunnel Vision bears to the left, but Stilgar goes to the right, climbing a steep face and cracks past a belay/rap station about 40 feet up. Climb the deep chimney slot above, belaying when convenient. Continue up the chimney, which is not hard, but has limited protection opportunities. At the top of the chimney, where the crack narrows, exit to the left (which is easier than it looks) and belay. The next pitch goes up easy rock, then traverses left to belay in the alcove at the base of the tunnel on Tunnel Vision. Instead of spelunking, go up the right-facing dihedral system straight above, being careful to avoid rope drag. Continue up the crack system, with one or two thin spots, to the top of the wall.
It seems like the Angel Food Wall is getting "star inflation." Tunnel Vision and Group Therapy are good routes - but 3-star classics? Stilgar is probably the best of the three...
Sebastien Jean and I did Stilgar's on Memorial Day 2009. Starting at 2pm we were in the shade the whole day. We used a 70m rope and did 4 pitches as follows. I don't know the exact pitch lengths so tried to describe the belays as best I could.
Pitch 1: Start up Tunnel Vision passing the first belay slings. Soon you'll see the next 3' wide Tunnel Vision chimney. To the right of it will be a 12' high vertical crack. Take this (5.8-) and belay on top of it from a bunch of slings wrapped around a big boulder with a giant quick link. This is a nice ledge. 180'
Pitch 2: Enter Stilgar's Chasm. You'll be in this a while. Pretty easy and secure feeling. When it does open up, above you'll see the chasm eventually closing down to fist size. Here you have two options, continue straight up the flaring chimney or take a little crack on the left wall in white rock (which we did at 5.8). Not far from the top of this you'll be able to make a little traverse back right to where the chasm chokes down. Continue up 10-12 more feet and step left onto another nice ledge. There will be a good horizontal crack (2"-2.5") and a nice vertical crack to belay from. 220'
Pitch 3: Head up a bit surmounting the little bulge on big holds (5.4) and a ways off left you'll see the entrance to the tunnel on Tunnel Vision. It's the 4'-5' wide cave looking thing. Make your way over to this (5.2). We didn't stop here (although you could) but instead headed straight up from the cave ledge aiming for the edges of the scallops to eliminate rope drag. I don't think you have to go deep inside the scallops. There are plenty of face and footholds to make it on the outside (a couple of 5.8 moves here and there with rests in between). After 3 scallops you'll pull over onto another big ledge. Belay here. 220' (There is also a mini tunnel here that it seems people have taken to rejoin Tunnel Vision!)
Pitch 4: Head up to the roof above you and turn this last scallop (Tamara's picture elsewhere here) and then continue up the corner passing a little bulge in white rock (5.8) and eventually surmounting another little bulge (5.8-) nearer the top on big jugs. One more scrambly little wall (5.3) and you are on the top! 210'
This was an enjoyable outing with a few very short 5.8 segments. A real nice day and a great alternative to waiting in line on Tunnel Vision.
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